No Fixed Address

A taste of Europe

2007-12-03T20:37:00.000-05:00

After a 14 months and 77,000 kilometres motorcycle ride throughout North America it was time for a change of venue. My good friend and running buddy Gerry, an Irishman who has hiked extensively throughout Europe suggested the Tour de Mont Blanc. A great idea it was. So we would fly to Paris then travel by rail to the south of France to the town of Chamonix in the Alps. We had gone there to hike one of the classic mountain walks of Europe the Tour de Mont Blanc. This hike circles the highest mountain in western Europe covering a distance of roughly 165Km with 10Km of ascent. It would take us 9 days to complete this walk through parts of France, Italy and Switzerland. This hike would be dominated throughout by spectacular views of the highest peaks in the Alps including Mont Blanc itself (4,807m/15,767ft). Lodging and meals were enjoyed in mountain refuges and villages along the route.

Following the Tour de Mont Blanc we would travel to Koblanz Germany, Luxembourg and Paris.

Mont Blanc the Monarch of the Alps at 4807 metres (15,771 feet). This mountain range is say to be one of the most spectacular areas in the alps. The narrow peak on this mountain top is know as the Aiguille du Midi..This photo was take from the train on our short ride from Chomonix to village of Les Houches where we would commence our hike.

Day 1 our walk would take us from the village of Les Houches to the village of Les Contamines. My hiking buddy Gerry leads the way along the narrow path as the Glacier de Bionnassay coax us onward.

The narrow footpath disappears within the vegetation of this flowery meadow as we continue our ascent towards this day's first mountain pass – Col de Tricot

The Dome de Miage as viewed from the Refuge de Miage – we arrived at this site following a very steep decent via a zigzag path along the ridge from Col de Tricot.

More of the Dome de Miage.

This unique mountain hotel "la clef des champs" in the village of Les Contamines would provide us with great food and accommodations following our first day of hiking.

Day 2 – This day's hike would take us from the village of Les Contamines to the village of Les Chapieux a distance of 18 KM with a height gain of 1316 metres and descent of 929 metres. This view along the way is the lower region of the Val de Montjoie.

The ascent continues into upper Val de Montjoie the building in the photo is the Refuge de Balme a mountain lodge.

Looking back from where we've come as viewed from this day's first mountain pass the Col du Bonhomme.

Another view of our ascent from the Val de Montjoie to the Col du Bonhomme. A difficult morning walk this has been.

This reservoir high in the French Alps would supply a Hydro Generation Station somewhere in the valley below.

The view from the second mountain pass on day 2 - Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. It's all down hill from here into the Vallee de Chapieux. One would assume that descents would provide a welcome relief to the hiker but that is not the case. The leg muscle group change but the energy demand remains constant.

An abandoned mountain hut sit in the valley near the community of Les Chapieux. We would spend the night in this community at the Auberge de la Nova a basic mountain hostel where we share sleeping accommodations in a large dorm.

Day 3 – from Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta a relative easy hike of 15 KM a height gain of 1004 metres. On this day we would walk out of France and into Italy. The walk out of the community of Les Chapieux would follow this river it's flow the discharge from the reservoir Barrage de Seloge in the mountains above.

La Vallee des Glaciers - note the refuge mountain lodge in the centre of the photo.

More of La Vallee des Glaciers.

This isolated mountain pass Col de la Seigne elevation 2516 metres is the border crossing from France into Italy. No irrational border officials were found at this location.

From this mountain pass the Col de la Seigne the path descends into the Val Veni. Our guide book stated that on a clear day we would be rewarded with fantastic views of Mont Blanc’s huge Italian face rising above the Glacier de Miages however on this day the weather was against us. An afternoon thunder storm was forecasted for this region and the clouds have set-in.

The Refuge Elisabetta perched high on a ledge below the Glacier d'Estellette. This mountain lodge would provide shelter from the afternoon thunder storm and over night rain.

Day 4 - Refuge Elisabetta to the Town of Courmayeur 18KM –This photo take from the Refuge Elisabetta into the lower Vallon de la Lee Blanche.

Just walking in the rain. The overnight rain would continued throughout the day forcing us to abandon the mountain route and hike into Courmayeur through the valley. Thanks Daryl for providing the Gortex rain gear.

A very pleasant valley walk in the rain to the Town of Courmayeur . We would find overnight lodging in a comfortable hotel in this town.

Day 5 - Courmayeur to the Rifugo Bonatti Mountain Lodge. The tour de Mont Blanc is routed through the community of Courmayeur a left turn is required at this location and up the narrow street.

I do like this style of architecture –This home is located in the Town of Courmayeur Italy.

The entrance to the Mont Blanc tunnel. A major alpine transportation route which links Courmayeur, Italy to Chamonix, France. In March 1999 a truck carrying flour and margarine caught on fire in this tunnel killing 39 people.

The Italian Alps near the Rifugio Bonatti.

The view through the open window of our room at the mountain lodge – Rifugio Bonatti.

The Italian mountain lodge – Rifugio Bonatti where we would terminate day 5. Any products brought into this lodge arrives by helicopter or on horseback.

A sea of late afternoon clouds engulf Mont Blanc – as viewed from the Rifugio Bonatti, Italy.

Early morning sunshine brighten-up the glacier on Mont Blanc – as viewed from Rifugio Bonatti, Italy.

Day 6 – From Rifugio Bonatti, Italy to La Fouly, Switzerland – 20 KM. We are rewarded with spectacular views of the Italian Alps as we make our way to the Swiss border.

More of the Italian Alps.

Direction sign post – these were located in Switzerland and are typical of those found along the Tour de Mont Blanc. On occasion the sign post would indicate the walking time to the destination.

A well traveled path through a Swiss forest.

It was interesting to walk out of the mountains and onto these country roads – this one was in Val Ferret near the village of Issert, Switzerland.

Day 7 – From La Fouly to Col de la Forclaz , Switzerland – Distance 31 KM – The very scenic town of Champex, Switzerland. We stopped in this community for a very tasty mid-day meal.

On occasion our well groomed hiking trail turn into this stuff – fortunately it was not for extended distances.

A well deserved break to admire the view of the Rhone Valley and the Bernese Alps of Switzerland.

The clanging of cow bells can be heard throughout the mountains of Switzerland. Although the bell ringing adds to the romance of the hike one can not help but think these bells must drive these poor cattle mad for every move made is followed by a loud clang.

Day 8 – From Col de la Forclaz, Switzerland to Tre-le-Champ, France - Distance 13 KM – height gain 1170 metres. The moon sit above these mountain peaks near the community of Trent, Switzerland.

A long hard climb up this zigzag path to the next mountain pass the Col de Balme.

The Refuge du Col de Balme - This run-down mountain lodge is positioned on the border between Switzerland and France. A great location to rest and enjoy the spectacular views – There were no paranoid border guard in this region..

Mont Blanc in all it's grander as viewed from the Refuge du Col de Balme.

This is ski country but today we'll walk this path which takes us back into France as viewed from the Col de Balme.

The narrow path on the summit of L'Aiguillette des Posettes. It's downhill from here to the Town of Tre-le-Champ.

The view across the valley from the summit of L'Aiguillette des Posettes. The zigzag pattern on the mountain slope will be part of our next morning ascent.

Day 9 – From Tre-le-Champ to Chamonix – Distance 15KM - This view is along a section of the route known as Grand Balcon Sud

More views from the Grand Balcon Sud.

A zoom lens would have been great to capture this ibex in it's classic pose. We were extremely fortunate to come-across these animals. Once hunted to extinction in the first half of the 19^th century then re-introduced in the 1920's their population has grown to 15,000.

Our walk continues into the valley up into the clouds and onward towards La Flegere. Note the rock wall in the photo is used to provide avalanche control for the valley below.

The final hours of our hike and yet views have remained spectacular.

Ladders embedded in the rock face were utilized to progress above this ledge.

A final view of Mont Blanc as viewed from an adjacent mountain Le Brevent. From this location we would ride a cable-car down to the Chamonix and terminate this amazing walk through the Alps.

The Town of Chamonix, France where we would remain for 3 days following our hike. A great place to simply kick-back and enjoy the surrounding's. It is a very touristy community – a center for anything pertaining to the mountains – hiking, mountaineering, skiing and the list goes on.

Following the Tour de Mont Blanc we would travel to Koblanz, Germany to visit with my hiking buddy Gerry's niece Christina and her friend Chris. This community of 106,000 is located on the banks of the Moselle River where it intersects with the Rhine River.

A boat tour on the Rhine River provided an opportunity for a closer view of the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress high above the river.

The River Rhine is one of the world's great shipping arteries and one of the most important rivers in Europe with 1320 kilometres of navigable water from the North Sea to Switzerland.

I was impressed with the large number of barges carry bulk cargo up and down of the Rhine.

This is the location where the Moselle River discharges into the Rhine River. The monument of Emperor William I is the largest I have ever see.

A small German Community along the Rhine River

Burg Eltz is a 12 century castle nestled in the hills above the Moselle River between Koblanz and Trier, Germany.

We would travel by rail from Koblaz, Germany to the city of Luxembourg. The city centre with it's narrow lanes, many squares and sidewalk cafes provided a good location for a day stop-over.

The country of Luxembourg has a population of 0.5 million. It has 3 official languages Letzeburgesch the national language German and French. It's booming economic is structured mainly in banking, insurance and the steel industry while agriculture and wine production are also important.

We would travel from Luxembourg to Paris on board this TGV (train à grande vitesse) high speed train. The TGV network centred in Paris has expanded to connect cities across France and in adjacent countries. A modifies version of this train has set a record for the fastest wheeled train having reached speeds of 574.8 km/hr (357mph). These standard TGV also holds the world's highest average speed for regular passenger service traveling up to 320 km/hr (200mph) in commercial use. These units are manufactured primarily by Alstom along with it's Canadian subcontractor Bombardier.

Tourist enjoy a boat ride on the River Seine in France's capital city Paris.

Notre Dame de Paris is widely considered one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture.

Sidewalk vendors sell their goods along a busy street on the banks of the River Seine.

Capturing the artist capturing the art.

The Arc de Triomphe is located at the western end of the Champs-Elysees which the French consider La plus belle avenue du monde – I think that would be open for debate.

One of the most recognizable structures in the world. Paris is the most popular tourist destination in the world with over 30 million foreign visitors per year.

Atlantic Canada

2007-08-19T17:55:00.001-04:00

This is the final installment of this amazing motorcycle ride through North American. It appears I had saved the best for last for the touring through New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland – Labrador was most enjoyable. This is a region with plenty of secondary less-traveled roads which follow the coast or meander along it's many majestic rivers through rural communities, small towns and villages. It is a vast area which is sparsely populated where the pace of life is slow and the hospitality second to none. I felt very much at home in this region. Of all the areas I've toured throughout this vast Continent, Atlantic Canada would be on the top of places to re-visit .

Grand Falls, New Brunswick – During the spring freshet this very narrow gorge on the St. John River will pass 6 million litres of water, (9/10 th of the volume of Niagara Falls) over this falls per second.

I met Lionel and Jean in Fredericton. They had their Triumph shipped by air from England to Toronto – They rode east to Nova Scotia / PEI and onto Drumheller, Alberta where they visited with family. I would later receive an e-mail indicating their ride through Canada was most enjoyable.

My buddy Gerry wets a paddle on the Nashwaak River near Fredericton

A great afternoon on the Nashwaak River.

The picturesque St. John River east of Fredericton.

This cable ferry shuttle vehicles across the St. John River near the village of Gagetown, NB.

This osprey was not happy because I was at the base of it nest – along the Jemseg River, NB.

I stopped to admire the pretty flowers near Cambridge Narrows, NB

Where the mighty Restigouche meets Chaleur Baie – From the back deck of Tania's house.

These fishing boats sit on the sea's bottom near Alma, NB. Within 12 hours the Fundy tides will raise these boats up to the docks edge.

Rainbow on the Bouctouche River – I shared this great view with my good friends John, Marise and their son Jonathan. While traveling in Newfoundland some 3 weeks later I would receive the terrible news that Jonathan was killed in a car accident.

Somewhere along the Northumberland Strait near Richibucto, NB

Fishing boats tied-up near Esuminac, NB.

The Maritime way. While traveling through Northern NB – I stopped to visit friends and learned Marc was installing a roof on his new garage. Labour was exchanged for beer and a good time was had during the process.

The Restigouche River and the First Nation Mik'Maq community of Listuguj.

These long canoe's are the mode of transportation on the Restigouche and Matapedia Rivers.

The Matapadea River near the village of Matapedia.
Kayaking on the St. John River near Fredericton

The Confederation Bridge between NB and PEI is considered as one of Canada's most significant engineering achievements of the 20^th century.

A piece of PEI coast near Cavendish.

A family farm – near Wheatley River, PEI

A field of wild flowers - PEI
A sheltered harbour on PEI's northeast shore.
The lighthouse at East Point - PEI's most easterly community.

A scenic view near Souris, PEI

The lighthouse at Wood Island, PEI

The community signs posted along the south shore of Nova Scotia's Bras d'Or Lake are bilingual Scottish Gaelic and English.

The highlands of Cape Breton, NS

One of Cape Breton's many sheltered harbours.

Another great meal – this one was shared with my good friends Steve and Nora.

A wet morning of kayaking with buddy Steve near Hubley, NS

The picturesque community of Peggy's Cove

A scenic view near Chester, NS

A scenic view near Parrsboro, NS

The church steeples of Mahone Bay, NS

My trusty steed get a new pair of running shoes.

These Continental TKC 80 duel sport were a great choice of tires to ride the Trans-Labrador highway.

The Matapedia River near the village of Matapedia, Quebec

I would board this ferry to cross the St. Lawrence River from Matane to Godbout, Quebec

The rolling hills along route 138 north of Baie Comeau, Quebec

Lighthouse on the north shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence near Godbout, Quebec.

Riding south along route 138 towards Baie Comeau, Quebec.

A scenic view along route 138 near Baie-Trinite, Quebec

Hydro Quebec's - Manic 2 hydro generating station – 1,024 megawatts - is located on route 389 north of Baie Comeau, Quebec

The arched dam for Hydro Quebec's - Manic 5 hydro generating station – 1,528 megawatts. Route 138 would take us up onto this concrete structure.

Route 389 - this dirt road of 1200 kilometres or more would take us north in Labrador and onto Blanc Sablon located on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Quebec.

It's a blast to be riding this route 389 – the Continental TKC 80 duel sport tire on the moto would working very nicely on this dirt road.

We encountered these locomotives along the section of route 389 between Fire Lake and Fermont, Quebec.

This load of iron ore from the Quebec Cartier Mining operation in Fermont was being transported to Baie Comeau.

This unit was once utilized in the Quebec Cartier Mining operation in Fermont. It has been retired and placed at the entrance of the mining town.

John and I at the Quebec / Labrador provincial boundary. I met John in August 2006 in Dawson City, Yukon – from there we would ride through Alaska. When I returned to southern Ontario in late May 2007 I spent a weekend with John and Heather in Peterborough. At that time we discussed riding the Trans-Labrador and continuing onto Newfoundland. So here we are - it's great to be here.

In the 196O's the town of Labrador City was built to accommodate employees of the Iron Ore Company of Canada. In the mid 70's I lived in this community and work as a maintenance technologist in the iron ore mining process. It was good to return to this community to revisit the city and rekindle past memories.

One of the units in this Labrador City apartment complex was a place I called home for a number of years.

Labrador City's Captain William Jackson Memorial Hospital – History was made here in the mid 1970 when number one son Daryl was born there.

An interesting sign posted on the Trans-Labrador highway east of Labrador City.

The overall road conditions of the Trans-Labrador provided good riding on the GS motorcycle however the road is constantly being re-graded, the gravel is very loose in many spots and area's that have been re-graded. The road surface is at times unpredictable with the occasional large rocks, treacherously loose sand and the well hidden pot hole.

More of the Trans-Labrador

These fir tree's of Labrador do not grow very tall or develop much of a trunk circumference

Labrador is a vast land with a large number of lakes and rivers..

The Trans-Labrador Highway

These 735 KV transmission lines make their way south to Quebec from the Churchill Falls Hydro Generating Station in Labrador.

Churchill Falls is one of the largest underground power stations in the world. It's 11 turbines could generate 5,428 MW.

An interesting sign posted in the Churchill Falls Hotel lobby.

This is a photo of a large picture which hung in the lobby of the Churchill Falls hotel which depicts the water flow over Churchill Falls after the hydro-electric project was completed.

This is a photo of a large picture which hung in the lobby of the Churchill Falls hotel which depicts the water flow over Churchill Falls before the hydro-electric project was completed.

These remains of a caribou were located very near a sign which prohibited hunting in this area.

People don't always pay attention to signs.

These wild flowers provided a bit of bright colour in a land of rock, forest, lakes and river

My buddy John riding east towards Goose Bay.

We arrived in Goose Bay and were treated to asphalt roads within the community – nice smooth tarmac.

We would board this ferry for an over night passage from Goose Bay to Cartwright.

A beautiful evening to be aboard the ferry – we encounter the supply ship Northern Ranger on it's route to service the remote communities along the northeast shore of Labrador.

John and I had a cabin for our overnight passage – the two additional bunks were made available to Adam and Mariola. Adam was also riding the Trans-Labrador highway aboard a new R-1200-GS Adventure.

The small remote community of Cartwright.

The portion of the Trans-Labrador highway from Cartwright to Goose Bay is under construction. The completion date is 2009. Once completed this would eliminate the requirements for ferry service.

More of the Trans-Labrador south of Cartwright
The village of Mary's Harbour
Ready for action - I would assume this snow removal equipment would have little down-time from October through May.

The Trans-Labrador Highway has provide a great few days of riding.

The remote Labrador community of Pinware.

Large pieces of icebergs slowly melt away in this remote Labrador community near Red Bay.

The fog rolls in along this stretch of coast highway near L'Anse au-Loup, Labrador.

This lighthouse at L'Anse-Amour is one of the highest along the Quebec-Labrador Coast.

We would board this ferry to cross the Strait of Belle Isle from Blanc Sablon, Quebec to St. Barbe, Newfoundland.

The rugged coast of Newfoundland's Northern Peninsula near St Anthony. From this location we could see whales move about in the coastal waters.

The fishing community of Raleigh on Newfoundland northern peninsula.

The Viking village at L'Anse aux Meadow – there is an amazing story associated with the discovery of this Viking site. In 1960 a Norwegian historian named Helge Ingstad commenced his search of the coast of North America from Maine to Labrador for evidence of a Viking village. After surveying this site in Newfoundland proof was found that Vikings were here more then 1000 years ago.

These building were constructed by Parks Canada to resemble the structures of the 1,000-year-old Viking colony at L’Anse aux Meadows. This is the site of the First known European settlement in North America. It was here that the Vikings built three timber-and-sod long-houses and five smaller buildings.

The first iron working in the New World began at L'Anse aux Meadow. The Vikings used local bog iron to make nails for ship repairs..

More of the Viking village.

I stopped to admire the view while John chat with a local fisherman.

The rugged coast of the Northern Peninsula.

Somewhere on the Northern Peninsula.

A sheltered harbour in Hawke's Bay near Port au Choix.

These large fishing boats were awaiting maintenance at the repair shop in Hawke's Bay.

Gros Morne National Park

Western Pond Brook fjord in Gros Morne National Park provides a dramatic setting for a boat tour.

More of Gros Morne's Western Brook Pond fjords.

This unfortunate Harley rider from Ohio picked-up a piece of ¼ inch tubing in his rear tire. We stopped to provide road side assistance but the tire was beyond repair. With the help of the good folks from Rocky Harbour Charlie was able to get a tire shipped in from St. John's over the next couple of days. I would later meet-up with Charlie, Scott and the girls in Twillingate where we shared drinks chilled by iceberg ice collected in the harbour

A spectacular view along route 431 on-route to Trout River.

A very interesting arrangement of sheds, docks and construction material. The photo's above and below were taken at Ming's Bight, Baie Verte.

I stopped at the Outport Museum and Tea Room in the community of La Scie for dinner one evening. Since I was the only customer I joined the owners Larry and Valerie for their evening meal, a very taste pea soup and crab platter. Both Larry and Valerie play in a local band and Larry make crazy-sticks. I was provided with a sample of just how good this Newfie music is as Larry played the accordion and Valerie the crazy-stick.

Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? Actually I wasn't very good with this musical instrument but it was fun trying.

The sun slowly drops into the North Atlantic at La Scie, Baie Verte Peninsula

It would be interesting to know the stories of the people who once call this old house in the community of Shoe Cove home.

A fishing community somewhere on the Baie Verte Peninsula.

I thoroughly enjoy these type of settings – this one was located in the remote community of Harbour Round.

I thoroughly enjoy these type of settings – this one was also located in the remote community of Harbour Round.

Another ferry to ride - this one to Fogo Island in Notre Dame Bay.

The fishing village of Joe Batt's Arm on Fogo Island.

Fogo Island is approximately twenty-one miles long and fourteen and a half miles wide. There are eleven communities with a combined population of twenty three hundred residents.

The lighthouse at Bonavista – John Cabot landed here in 1497.

Giovanni Caboto a Venetian citizen sailed from Bristol, England on a small sailing ship called the Matthew. He landed somewhere on the east coast on June 24, 1497. It is assumed he landed in Bonavista. But why have the history book called this man John Cabot?

St John's Newfoundland as seen from Signal Hill.

This off shore supply vessel exits the narrow passage from St. John's sheltered harbour.

The Cabot Tower at Signal Hill was built in 1897 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Giovanni Caboto / John Cabot's discovery of Newfoundland.

One of the original lighthouses / now decommissioned at Cape Spear. Cape Spear is the most easterly point in North America. As I rode into this National Historic Site this saddle tramp had achieved another milestone. It's a great feeling to be here.

St. John's Confederation Building – the house of assembly for the Newfoundland Labrador Government

These St. John's row-houses have been very nicely restored.

My trusty steed is handed a bouquet of flowers for providing 75,000 kilometres of reliable service during this amazing Continental Tour.

Pat and Glenda – I met this couple when they were camping with their 5^th wheeler in Deer Lake. I arrived at the park near 6 PM and proceed to erect my tent. A wonderful smell was coming in my direction from Pat's BBQ – Pat comes over to visit, as we chat he extends an invitation to join he and Glenda for beers and burgers. A treat it was after a long day in the saddle. Following dinner I was invited to return to join them for a drink around the fire. A very nice visit when had. The following morning while packing-up Glenda came to my site and stated that egg's, toast and coffee was being serviced at their unit. These people have been very kind to this saddle tramp. As I left following breakfast Glenda insisted I take with me a lunch she'd prepared. Nowhere else on this continent had I been extended such hospitality – Only in Newfoundland.

A picturesque setting near Steady Brook.

Another typical Newfoundland setting – I thoroughly enjoy this environment.

This fisherman was very handy with his filleting knife – In seconds he'd have these cod fish filleted, bones removed and skinned

Ready to head to the fishing grounds - These small dory's transport the fishermen to the area where they'd use hand lines to catch cod. The dory's are painted with this bright colour to facilitate rescue when lost at sea.

Newfoundland Labrador have the most interesting names of places on this Continent.

The Coast Guard rescue vessel Cape Fox stationed in Lark Harbour – when I was in Port Hardy on Vancouver Island I was provided a tour of this vessel sister ship the Cape Sutil.

A scenic ride along route 450 east of Corner Brook

This sign is posted on the Trans-Canada Highway near Port-aux-Basque. I talked with some of the local residents about these winds. They told stores of transport trucks being pushed off the road and overturned. When the trains operated in this area there were occasions when they were derailed by the winds

The Table Mountains north of Port-aux-Basque.

The town of Port-aux-Basque.

My trusty steed is secured in-place aboard the ferry Caribou for the crossing from Port-aux-Basque to North Sydney, Nova Scotia.

Blog Update

2007-07-12T13:36:00.000-04:00

I have been slow with the Blog updates. For the past two months I have been enjoying the company of family and friends. During this period I have collect very few travel stories. However, I will soon be riding the TransLabrador Highway into Newfoundland. Following the Newfoundland / Labrador tour I will be posting more photo's and stories.

Eastern USA / II

2007-07-12T13:14:00.001-04:00

The following are a few photo's collected during my tour through West Virginia, Kentucky, Ohio, Pennsylvania and New York.

A loaded motorcycle and a contented ride. This action shot was photographed by Zee Foto as I rode through Deal Gap in the Great Smoky Mountains near the North Carolina / Tennessee border. Learn more about Zee Foto www.zeefoto.com

A coal mining operation in a small town in Kentucky.

A motorcyclist delight – a smooth surfaces and plenty of tight turns – somewhere in West Virginia.

Some of my favorites rides were those recommended by the locals. This ride over a narrow mountainous pass through Kentucky's Daniel Boone National Forest was suggested by the waiter at a restaurant where I was having lunch.

The mountains and valleys of West Virginia.

A rural route through up-state New York.

These wind generators located in the remote region of the Pennsylvania – New York border were being driven by the mountain breeze.

Meandering through the rolling hills of Pennsylvania.

The farmland of Pennsylvania.

Dandelions and apple blossoms in rural New York state.

Looking back at the border crossing at Niagara-on-the-Lake. They've actually let me back into Canada – Amazing.

Niagara Falls, Canada.

The maid of the Mist is one of the Continent's best bang for your tourist buck. For a fee of $14.00 which includes recycle rain gear this tour-boat shuttles it's passengers to the base of the water falls.

Canada's awe-inspiring Niagara Falls.

Eastern USA / 1

2007-05-03T15:51:00.000-04:00

The following are a few highlights collected during the weeks of touring through Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, North and South Carolina, Virginia and West Virginia.

Most of the touring through these south eastern states were along rural routes - Interstate highways were rarely utilized - The coastal states of North and South Carolina provided good riding however ocean views were unavailable - To satisfy a curiosity I rode through the community of Myrtle Beach to determine what would draws the large number of golfers to this city – perhaps it is the large number of golf courses – Hatteras National Seashore along North Carolina's Outer Bank provided a good day's ride - The inland-states which skirt the Appalachian Mountains provides some of North America's most popular motorcycle riding routes. The following are a few of my favorites .

Deals Gap / home of the famous Dragon with it's 318 turns in 11 miles along highway US 129 in Tennessee. Some claim this road to be America's number one motorcycle and sports car road.
The Cherahla Skyway provides 60 miles / 97 km of remote scenic mountain riding through Tennessee and North Carolina. This route provides an abundance of ups / downs and long sweeping turns. This route is highway 165 .
The Great Smoky Mountain National Park highway 441 through Newfound Gap.
Blue Ridge Parkway follows the Appalachian Mountains in Virginia and North Carolina
Shenandoah National Park – I'll remember this location as the only place I was caught for a speeding violation during this Continental Tour.
There are many other great touring routes throughout this region to locate them one simply has to select a rural route through the mountains.

“Way down upon the Suwannee River” / remember that tune - The Suwannee River flows southerly from this location in the Okeefenokee Swamp in Georgia to the Gulf of Mexico in Florida. On this day in late April a large forest fire was burning out of control a few miles east of this area.

It would be interesting to know the stories of the people who once called this northern Georgia cabin home.

This hydro generating station located on the Cheoah River near the Tennessee / North Carolina state line south of Smoky Mountain National park brought back thoughts of the past – It's great to be on the outside looking in!

A great motorcycle ride through the Great Smoky Mountain National Park which straddles the state line between North Carolina and Tennessee - Between 8 and 10 million people visit Great Smoky Mountains National Park each year making it the most visited national park in the country.

North Carolina's Bodie Island Lighthouse on the Outer Banks - A string of sandy barrier island more than 130 miles long that bow out into the Atlantic Ocean. One of it's community Kitty Hawk is were Orville and Wilbur’s Wright achieve the first powered aircraft flight on December 17^th, 1903.

The Shenandoah National Park ranger sits in his SUV preparing a speeding ticket. The posted speed limit along the 105 miles / 169 km of skyline drive is 35 mph / 56 kph. It was a blast to ride the ups – downs and tight turns but I don't think it was worth the $107.00 plus $25.00 processing fee. I was guilty as charged – Unlike the municipal police officers I encountered in Mexico this park ranger provided me with a self addressed envelop and indicated I could utilize my visa to cover the cost. A good guys he was – we had a nice chat once the formalities were completed.

Alabama's Appalachian Mountains foothills - This mountain system of eastern North America extending about 1,600 miles / 2,574 km southwest from Newfoundland, New Brunswick and southern Quebec to central Alabama. The range includes the Allegheny, Blue Ridge and Cumberland mountains.

The rewards of riding rural routes - A great location for a break. This horse can down to the fence to determine what I was doing in his neighborhood.

Somewhere in the Shenandoah Valley.

Another great location for a break from riding.

I met the owner of this quality motorcycle a Ducati 851 and the trailer in North Carolina. It's owner Don from Fayetteville, Tennessee was in the region for a week of riding. The interesting point was Don also took along two more of his Ducati red-heads an 888 and a 900 – A beautiful collections of toys they were. A very enjoyable evening we had sharing a few cool ones and a great steak.

The Blue Ridge Parkway one of the most popular units of the National Park System . This roadway through Virginia and North Carolina is referred to as "America's Favorite Drive". It winds its way 469 miles / 755 km through mountain meadows past endless vistas - spectacular views of distant mountains and neighboring valleys. The north end of the Parkway leads to Shenandoah National Park - the south end to Great Smoky Mountains National park.

Gulf States

2007-04-16T17:10:00.000-04:00

Back in the USA – Travel in this country is so easy. Although it's good to be traveling within these Gulf States the challenges and sense of adventure associated with Mexican travel have all but vanished. Even my trusty navigator the GPS is once again operatable. South of this border the GPS was utilized solely as a compass. Over the past four week I have toured along the Gulf of Mexico from Brownsville Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama and Florida.

Nothing out of the ordinary to report – The following are a few highlights of my tour.

I enjoyed Easter weekend in Baton Rouge. During my stay the motorcycle was dropped-off at the local BMW dealer for it's 50,000 kilometre service interval.

I toured some of Louisiana's back roads through Cajun and Plantation Country. I enjoyed riding the River Road from Baton Rouge to New Orleans. This road meanders along the mighty Mississippi River through a number of picturesque communities. This route provided an enjoyable day's ride however the only time I got to view the river was when crossing it on a bridge. The river cannot be seen from the road because of the elevation of the levees - pity.

I arrived in New Orleans on a Monday afternoon - booked a hotel room in the French Quarters. I had planned to remain in this city for three days but stayed a week. The French Quarters Festival – a music festival with a large venue of extremely talented musicians was scheduled during my visit.

I experienced an enjoyable visit with Alabama Bob. I met Bob who is a high-mileage biker in New Mexico this past November. When he learned I was in New Orleans during the festival weekend he rode in from Alabama for a visit - a very good time we had. New Orleans is one of the best party towns I've encountered.

From New Orleans I would continue riding along the Gulf of Mexico into Mississippi, Alabama and Florida continuing south to Key West.

An observation about this segment of my tour within these Gulf States – This regions suffers from massive urban sprawl and it's associated heavy traffic.

The USS Lexington is a decommissioned WWII aircraft carrier transformed into a museum. It sit in shallow water at North Beach on Corpus Christi waterfront.

Sailboats, Masts and Corpus Christi city center.

I traveled by ferry from Galveston across Trinity Bay to Port Bolivar. Boating traffic was heavy with a large number of ocean-going oil tankers in this water passage.

These newly constructed elevated homes are a common sight along the gulf shores of Texas, Louisiana and Mississippi. I can only assume this design was initiated to address flooding concerns.

Louisiana back country highway 14 curves along fields of new planted sugar cane and these flooded rice paddies. Once the rice is harvested in these paddies farmers will install cages to farm crawfish. Both of these crops require ponded fields and pumping stations to control the water level. The rice and the crawfish are a major staple in the Cajun diet and are the primary ingredients in jambalaya and etouffee.

The oak trees line the main street through the picturesque town of Franklin which is said to have one of the highest concentration of antebellum home in Louisiana.

One of the many Bayou's within the Mississippi Delta region. This region is home to the Cajun's (Acadian French) and Creole's (mixed French, African and Native Indian).

A Plantation Mansion along the Mississippi River.

Tug boats and barges are a common sight on the Mississippi River. The Mississippi River is longest River in North America (3,765 km) and the fourth longest in the world. The Nile, Amazon and Yangtze sit at first, second and third.

Louisiana's state capital building located in Baton Rouge is the tallest state capitol building in the United States at 450 feet high with 34 floors.

An obsession with guns.

A typical southern Louisiana cemetery - the above ground vaults were required because the ground water levels make burial impractical.

A strong Maritime connection. More the 250 years ago the bayous and fertile farm land received thousands of colonist deported by the British from the French settlement of Acadia in Nova Scotia. Today this region of Louisiana is know as Cajun Country. The rich cooking and fiddle-driven music has become but a few of the defining features of the area.

Another interesting T-shirt logo.

This boardwalk is known as “River Walk” - It is adjacent to the Mississippi River in New Orleans near the French Quarters - One of my favorite running routes.

The extremely talented street musicians are sure to delight.

Jackson Square is an historic park within the French Quarters of New Orleans. A bit of trivia regarding Equestrian Statues (1) When both of the horse's front legs are raised - it signified the rider was killed in battle. (2) When one of the horse's front leg is raised - it signified the rider died of his / her wounds sustained in battle. (3) When all of the horse's hoofs are grounded - it signified the rider died of natural causes.

The extremely talented street musicians are sure to delight.

I would stroll the streets of the French Quarters with a fist full of $1.00 bills – stopping to listen to the extremely talented Musicians – drop a few bucks and move-on to find more of the same.

Royal Street – French Quarters.

Maintaining the look of the French Quarters past – A successful restoration project.

Can you hear that great Dixieland tune!

The extremely talented street musicians are sure to delight.

The effects of Katrina remain visible through the area near Biloxi, Mississippi.

Riding along Highway 41 through the Florida Everglades I stopped for a break and noticed this alligator and three more of his buddies within 10 metres from where I stood.

Transmission Lines and Bridges - One of the many which provides the link along the Florida Key's Highway which is know as the Overseas Highway.

A Few Observations.

2007-04-01T11:43:00.000-04:00

The country is know to us as Mexico but officially it is Estados Unidos (United States) Mexicanos – comprised of 31 Estados (States) and 1 Distrito (District) Federal.

The earliest human traces found in Mexico date from about 20,000 BC.

Over population looms as one of Mexico's greatest problem. In 1940 the population was 20 Million. In 2003 these numbers increased to over 100 Million. The present birth rate exceeds the death rate.

The people of Mexico are very friendly, helpful and considerate.

Mexican food is extremely tasty. I thoroughly enjoyed the cuisine in this country. These people loves their food and desserts. There is an abundance of bakery and pastry shops. I know I'll miss these meals when I move north of this border. Pass the Ketchup please.

Mexico is a county of great wealth in it's natural resources – oil, mining, fisheries, agricultural – However the wealth is spread amongst very few leaving the majority of the population struggling to provide for basic comforts.

Mexico is a land of extremes – affluent city neighborhoods consist of large homes with well tended gardens behind high walls with strong security gates – in villages people live in small buildings of adobe, wood or concrete with earth floors and roofs of tin. The wealthy drive Hummers / flashy cars while others travel by oxen cart / mule / burro / bicycle.

In 1985 an earthquake in Mexico City killed 10,000 - $4 billions in damages.

Mexicans drink more Coke-Cola per person the any other country in the world. The countries past president Vincente Fox was once the chief of Coke-Cola operations.

Denial hygiene in Mexico is very good. Mexican are always laughing and have beautiful smiles / teeth.

The family unit in Mexico is very solid. It isn't unusual to see teenage children walking hand-in-hand / arm-in-arm with parents or grandparents.

There appears to be a large number of teenage girls who are also teenage mothers.

Ninety percent of the the countries population practice Catholicism – Every community has one or more churches usually located in the community centre.

The trades workers produce a high quality finished product. This is often achieved without the use of power assisted tools.

Developers and project managers of high-rises hotels, resorts and condos have not implemented safe work practices. Worker safety on any construction sites is not a priority.

Hotels and restaurants are normally very clean. Staff are continuously cleaning, polishing & sweeping.

Mexico has a huge drug trade industry. Unfortunately organized crime has been able to control elected officials, police officers and anti-drug officials by buying them off.

A number of Canadians and Americans travel to Mexico to purchase prescription drugs and for low cost dental and medical treatment.

As a tourist destination Mexico has much to offer. During this past 3.5 months visit I have merely scratched the surface. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit and will definitely return to this country south of winter – not in the immediate future but at a later time.

Estados de Oaxaca y Tamaulipas

2007-03-31T20:59:00.000-04:00

At 07:30 on the morning of March 27th I rode through the busy city of Veracruz and located highway 180 on the northern edge of the city. Over the next few days I would ride this highway north to the city of Matamoros, Tamaulipas where I would cross the border into Brownsville, Texas. I was feeling very good about heading north following a very nice visit with Tania and Julie. These past 3.5 months in Mexico have been very rewarding. I have thoroughly enjoyed my visit in this country – I've had an opportunity to interface with the locals - to experience the culture – the food – kindness of the people. But now it feels good to be returning to the USA - a place where a fair hair – light skin – blue eyed individual can get lost in a crowd instead of thinking “why is everybody always looking at me”.

This inland route which followed the coast provided few scenic views of the sea. The ride was uneventful except for a number of army and police check points. The first stop was an army check point - I was requested to open one of my luggage boxes for inspection. This inspection process went very smoothly and within a few minutes I was allowed to proceed. An hour later I encounter a second army check point where I was once again requested to stop. This heavily armed group of young men where supporting Federal Agents who were dressed in civilian clothing. At this stop I was questioned by a lady who spoke very good English. She questioned me about my travels within Mexico and requested to see my passport. I was then allowed to proceed. Within 25 kilometres I encountered a third stop. The Policia Federal had established an inspection area and I was requested to stop. An officer request me to present the vehicle temporary import permit and my tourist permit. This would be the first time I would present these documents to an official since they had been issued to me 3.5 month ago at the border crossing from Arizona. Fortunately the documents were acceptable and I was allowed to proceed. I would terminate this days ride in the city of Tuxpam. I booked a room at a hotel and rode into the city centre - parked the bike and walked around the square to to find a place for dinner. A tourist destination Tuxpan is not and once again all eyes were focused on the Gringo. When I returned to the bike I was approached by an individual who was very interested in the moto. Even though neither one of us could converse in the others language we were able to make ourself understood and enjoy a very pleasant exchange. These encounters with the locals is what make travel in this country interesting.

The following morning with an early start I pointed my trusty steed in a northerly direction. This was to be my last full day in Mexico. My plan was to ride 400 kilometres and stop for the night. At this point I would be within 200 kilometres of Texas. The following day I would have an easy ride to Brownsville. When I arrived in the city of Tampico traffic became very congested. As I progressed trough the city I heard a loud whistle – I turned in the direct from where the sound originated to see a police officer on foot motioning me to stop - A second police officer on a motorcycle quickly pulls-up behind me. The motorcycle cop tells me in Spanish he want to see my drivers license – which I hand over to him. He then tells in broken English me “I had failed to make a stop and I must pay”. The second cop arrives and states “you must pay”. I inform them I didn't understand what I had done wrong. Their response was “you must pay”. Well then who do I pay – “you pay me”. “How much do I pay”? “One hundred American dollars” was their reply. “I don't have $100.00 US dollars”. Unfortunately I had consolidated the remaining cash I carried with me and placed it in my wallet that morning before I left the hotel. Until today I had never before carried more the $300 Pesos in my wallet. I offered the cops $400.00 Pesos. One cop say “No” reached over and took my wallet from me and removed the 5 x $200.00 Pesos from the wallet. He returns the wallet and hands me the driver license. He passes two of the bills to his buddy and tells me I must follow him. “Where are we going”? I ask - to which he responds “you must follow me”. Not comfortable with this process I maintain a distance behind him. He had taken me via a short-cut to the highway. He wave me past him and told me to go. Happy to oblige I move on. I had plenty of time to ponder this incident over the next hours of my ride. As this incident unfolded I felt extremely threatened and very uneasy with this situation. What sadden me most is not the fact that I been robbed but what happens to the system when people in positions of authority are corrupt. The system cannot function and it is the poor Mexican people who suffers most. This incident has not tarnished my views of Mexico. A couple of thieves cannot alter the fact that I had a wonderful visit to this country – I met plenty of very kind, helpful and considerate people. I will definitely return to this country south of winter – not in the immediate future but at a later time. But as for today - when this day ends - my trusty steed and I will be in Brownsville, Texas.

Estados de Oaxaca y Veracruz

2007-03-31T20:47:00.000-04:00

On March 12th I rode out of Puerto Escondido and continued in a southerly direction along highway 200. Within an hour I would exit the highway and ride the 10 Kilometres into the village of Puerto Angel. In this community I would achieve another milestone – this would mark the most southerly point I would reach on this particular journey. From here hence forward all roads lead north. I located a place in the shade – sat back and pondered the moment. Over the past ten months my trusty steed and I have been from Cape Breton, Nova Scotia to Inuvik in Canada's Northwest Territories and now we sit Puerto Angel, Oaxaca, Mexico – truly amazing.

Back on the highway my ride would take me into the communities of Bahia de Huatulco and Salina Cruz. Along this stretch I would once again be stopped at an army check point. These stops are now very common and have become an acceptable norm. I've developed a procedure on how to progress through these checks. If requested to stop - I pull over – shut the engine down – dismount – remove helmet and sunglasses. I look them in the eye and with plenty of smiles and my very poor Spanish I proceed to tell them about my ride. Someone will indicate they want to inspect a box or bag. “Absolutely my friend let have a look”. The young soldier would quickly inspect the box / bag - smile and say “Okay”. At this point the focus of attention becomes the bike and more questions about the journey. By the time I suit-up and ride off the mood is very relaxed – another pleasant encounter.

This days ride would end in Santo Domingo Tehuantepec but before I would arrive in this city I would have to seek directions. This route I was riding don't appear to correspond with my map – At the first opportunity I stopped at a gas station / restaurant service area. There I encountered two heavily armed uniformed guards. I assumed they were posted there to keep some of the locals honest. With map in-hand I approached one of them. A very friendly individual he was – I was informed I had missed a turn 20 Kilometres from where I come. I then retraced my tracks and eventually made my way to Santo Domingo Tehuantepec. I booked a room at the Hotel Guiexhoba. The cool air conditioned room provided relief from the sweltering heat of the day's ride . That evening I was treated to an excellent meal of fish at the hotel's restaurant at a total cost of $110.00 Pesos / $11.00 Dollars which including two beer.

On March 13th I commenced my trek inland and headed towards the Gulfo de Mexico. This ride will take me through a region known as the Istmo / Isthmus de Tehuantepec. This is a hot low-lying parcel of land where the temperature climbs into the thirties. The route skirted the foot hills of the Seirra Madre Sur where these mountains where seldom out of view throughout this section of Mexico's narrowest point. Foreign visitors are few in this region and locals are curious to see pale skin – fair hair - blue eyed Gringos. The Zapotec culture which has been past down from an ancient civilization is rich in this region. Many woman wear big printed skirts which are embroidered with colorful silk flowers and wear odd headgear. It was not unusual to see farm carts being pulled by teams of oxen as I rode through villages. It was interesting to compare that mode of transportation to that of my trusty steed – a trade I wouldn't entertain. This days ride ended in the town of Catemaco population 25,000. This town is located on the western shore of beautiful Laguna Catemaco a large oval lake approximately 16 kilometres long. The evening breeze from the lake and the higher elevation at 340 metres provided for a very comfortable nighttime temperature. It was very pleasant to sit on the lake facing balcony of my room at Hotel del Brujo and enjoy the beauty of the surrounds. I would remain in this town for the next three days.

From Catemaco I would ride along route 185 to the City of Veracruz (population 600,000). It was a welcoming relief to finally get to ride along the shores of the Gulfo de Mexico and enjoy the freshness of it's sea breeze. This region's landscape is rich and lush in vegetation. This grazing animals along this route appeared to be much better nourished then most I've had observed throughout this country. This rich futile land has supported life in this region for thousands of years. The Olmec, mesoamerica's earlies known civilization built their first great centre around 1200 BC. The Spaniard Hernan Cortes arrived in April 1519 - within two years the Ancient civilizations which were nearly 3000 years old was shattered by tiny groups of invaders who destroyed these empire - brought new religion to Mexico and reduced the natives to second class citizens and slaves. Fast forward to today Veracruz is a very modern city - It is Mexico's most important deep water port – handling around 70% of the exports to the Americas and Europe. It is also a centre for manufacturing and the petro-chemical industries.

I would remain in Veracruz for twelve days. During this period my daughter Tania would arrive from Victoria, British Columbia for a six day visit. Also joining us was Tania's childhood friend and travel buddy Julie who arrived from Ottawa. It was a pleasure to spend time with these very accomplished young ladies and season travelers. A wonderful visit we enjoyed - our shared accommodations at the beach resort of Hotel Playa Paraiso provided a great environment to simply kick-back / relax – share some great food – early morning runs with a favorite running partner – sit around the pool & catch-up on some reading – mid afternoon treats & walks on the beach. This six day visit was a great way to wrap my amazing 3.5 months adventure throughout Mexico. Following Tania and Julie's return to Canada I commenced my three day trek north to Brownsville, Texas.

The beach near the Hotel Playa Paraiso, Veracruz.

The facilities at the Hotel Playa Paraiso, Veracruz.

Veracruz city centre

Veracruz city centre with it's ample selection of eateries.

The beach near the Hotel Playa Paraiso, Veracruz.

One night of un-secure parking could lead to this.

A little man and with the catch of the day.

Puerto Angel is the most southerly point I would reach on this amazing journey.

Boats on the beech at Puerto Angel.

Estados de Colima, Michoacan, Guerrero y Oaxaca

2007-03-14T11:41:00.000-04:00

Most of the routes I've been riding rarely bypass communities. These highway usual becomes a series of busy streets as the rider progresses through the city. While riding through these communities one must be continuously scanning the area for signs as you could easily make a wrong turn. Such was the case while riding through the city of Tecoman. Somehow I missed a turn and because I was riding on a series of one way streets I could not retrace my path. After a number of unsuccessful trips around the area I flagged-down a cab. I asked for directions to the highway to Playa Azul. He proceeded to provide instructions in Spanish along hand signals. I soon realized I could not following those directions. With the aid of hand signals and some very crude Spanish I asked if he would lead the way and I'd follow him back to the highway. He agreed and within a couple of kilometers I was taken to the highway. I offered him $20.00 Pesos to which he indicated was acceptable. I thanked him for his help - shook his hand and rode off happy to be once again riding south.

This stretch of highway 200 along the central Pacific hugs the sea as it passes along untouched beaches. The Serria Mandre del Sur mountain range form a lush inland backdrop. The highway is a series of ups and downs along chase-your-tail-turns. I had stopped to take a few photo's - admire the view - sit back for a 15 minutes break. When I got back onto the highway within a half Kilometer I quickly realized I was in big trouble. I was in a curva peligrosa - dangerous curve going much to fast. I put the bike down and we went off the road into the bushes. It was a terrible feeling to crawl out of the ditch and look down at my beloved moto thinking “what kind of a mess have I put myself into this time”. On a positive note I was not injured – another testimony for wearing protective riding gear. Within a few minutes help arrives. It will take five of us to push and pull the bike up out of the bushes and onto the road. A close inspection indicates there was no major damage. We push the motorcycle forward to get the transmission in neutral. The engine fires up immediately and I rode the bike off the road to a cleared area. The only damage to the moto was the right turn signal light has broken off and the windscreen has dislodged from securing points but remained functional. For the second time within this journey the engine guards and the Jesse luggage boxes have saved my bacon. I thanked the individuals who had stopped to assist as they prepared to leave. I remained alone at the scene to reflect on what just happened here. This event could have been very serious – This is definitely a wake-up call – I was simply not focused – no doubt about this it was definitely operator error. The words of the Policia Federal officer who I had encountered on the highway to Durango have come back to haunt me “Slo Slo”. As I rode-off I realized I was extremely fortunate that I wasn't injured nor was the motorcycle damaged from this event. Later that evening I would reinstalled the turn signal light and reattached the windscreen. Other then a few new minor scrapes on the bike there is little indication that such an incident occurred. This happens to be one hell of a motorcycle I am riding..

I would spend the night at Hotel Merie Teresa in the tiny beach community of Playa Azul. The narrow door into the reception area made for a tight fit as I rode the bike into the court yard. This is a great service many hotel administrators in this country provide to motorcyclist. It is very comforting knowing your bike is safely stored overnight. At 05:30 the following morning I was awaken by church bells then again at 06:00 the bells would ring. I can only assume the first ringing was to wake everyone in the village and the second sounding was the starting off Mass. This is lent season. Now that I was awake I got an early start on that today's ride.

This day's ride would provide more incurable mountainous and ocean scenery as I made my way south to Acapulco. This cosmopolitan city (pop.925,000) is one of the worlds top tourist destination with a large number of mega resorts. When approached the city I encountered an army check point. With a hand signal I was requested to pull over to the inspection area. I had previously encountered a number of these army check points along this ride but was never ordered stopped. I was quickly surrounded by five solders. Four of the them were carrying very large automatic rifles. These young men appeared to be in there early twenty's. The only individual without a weapon their spokesman approached me as I demounted from the bike and removed my helmet and sunglasses. He asked if I spoke Spanish. His facial expressions indicated he wasn't particularly pleased he'd have to struggle through this inspection in English. With broken English which was surprising good he stated he wanted to look at what I had stored in my luggage boxes. To which I responded “Amigo I'll show you whatever you'd like to see - where do you want to commence”. As he inspected my gear I talked about my travels and regions I had visited. When I mentioned British Columbia he quickly turn and said “you were in Columbia”. “Oh no British Columbia - Canada” I never use that line again I thought. As the inspection drew to a close the mood became very relaxed. I quickly realized that this was a group of young men who were not having much fun inspecting their fellow country men's personal belongs. They were definitely interested in my ride and impressed with the motorcycle. We continued to chat and they became very friendly. Prior to riding off I was provided with directions on how I could bypass Acapulco to avoid the heavy city traffic. I left them with my card so they could checkout this blog. I shook their hand and wished them well. They waved and smiled as I rode off.

I entered Acapulco via the southern approach after exiting the city bypass. I stopped at a number of hotels seeking accommodations for the night but no rooms were available. I hadn't realized that this was Friday afternoon and this popular tourist destination is only 350 KM from Mexico City one of the world largest cities. For the first time since during this ride I couldn't find a place to sleep. I stopped at the gated entrance to the Princess Hotel and Resort. I spoken to one of the armed guards who indicated that if a room were available in this establishment I pay in excess to $3,000.00 Pesos per night. The guard also indicated I may find accommodations if I continued riding south out of the city. After a few more unsuccessful stops I became very concerned. Fortunately I located the Hotel Real Mar some 20 kilometres outside the city - here I was provided with a room. At a cost of $1,500.00 Pesos / $150.00 Dollars this first class facility provided much relief following a stressful afternoon. With an 1.5 hours of daylight remaining I rode off to locate a restaurant. As I entered a village I noticed an outdoor eating establishment where most of the tables were occupied - a good indicator for quality food. I sat down ordered a coke and asked to see a menu. They young lady indicated there was no menu and proceeded to list the three items which was being served this evening. I informed her I did not understand any of what she had said but I'll have item one. Judging from the look on her face and body language I assume she said “Do you really want the iguana?” “No thanks I'll try item number two please”. I couldn't help but laugh as she left to place my order. My dinner soon arrived. I had ordered some sort of a stew. It was served in a large soup bowl – I assumed the meat was beef but I am not sure what parts – it contained no vegetables. As I started the meal I thought “don't think about it just eat it”. I soon cleaned-out my bowl. Happy with this accomplishment I returned to the Hotel Real Mar. This secure hotel is enclosed via a three metre block wall - access was provided via a large gate at the front - the rear of the property was open to the beach. A guard with a large pistol secured to his belt was positioned at the front gate. From my balcony I would later spotted two guards with automatic rifles patrolling the beach area. As I sat there I thought “my trusty steed and I have plenty of protection from the banditos tonight”. Happy to have comfortable place to sleep I settled down for the night.

The following morning I set out in a southerly direction following highway 200 through a region known as the Costa Chica / Small Coast. A large portion of this regions population consist of Afro-mestizo ( people of mixed African, Indigenous and European descent). This region was once a safe haven for Africans who escaped slavery from the Spanish. This is an impoverished region apart from its few tourist spots. For the next six hours my ride would consist of alternately climbing hill and descending into river valleys some of which contained coco- palm plantations. This highway provided some great riding as it wends along the coast with it's many lagoons and pristine beaches. This is an area of lush tropical vegetation where the ambient air is hot and humid - the temperature on this day would fluctuated between 25C to 34C.

A few observations from this days ride. 1) Within the first hour I encountered an army check point - with a hand signal I was instructed to proceed. 2) The poverty within the towns and villages along this route appeared to be much higher then those communities north of Acapulco. The housing facilities within these communities were very basic. 3) I crossed a number of bridges where I observed women washing clothing in the river below. Lines were strung between the trees on the river bank where the garments were hung to dry. 4) I observed a number woman carrying large loads on their heads. One teenage girl balanced a log approximately 1.5 meters long x 15 cm. I questioned how this young woman could have such strength for such an activity.

I arrived in Puerto Escondido (Hidden Port) and got a room at the Hotel Vista Hermosa. As I completed the registration paper work there was some great blues music playing in the back ground. I joked with the young lady about the Mexican music I was hearing – she indicated there was a Resturante Americana in this building. At the Split Coconut I would meet Ross the bartender from Alberta and Brad the cook from Atlanta. This restaurant's house specialty is BBQ ribs – steak – burgers. Food of the homeland none of which I've tasted in months. After a couple of cool cerveza - a large juicey steak was placed before me. It was devoured in little time and throughly enjoyed. However within a couple of hours there were signals my internals were not happy with this latest meal. - Guts in Turmoil. For the first time within this journey I got the runs. I used the Pepto Bismal which I had carried with me from Arizona because many had warned me that Mexican food would make me ill. A few days later I realize I have a new problem - a buddy Neil provides me with a couple of Dulcolax tablets because I have not had a BM in a couple of days. I am now happy to report that things have returned to normal - and I hate drugs.

On afternoon I walked over to the market area to attempt to find 20-W-50 Castrol motorcycle oil and a shop where the oil in the moto could be replaced and dispose of it. With a few written notes and some poorly spoken Spanish I approached individuals who were riding motorcycles to assist with my quest. Within an hour I was able to find both and extremely pleased with this accomplishment.

I would remain in Puerto Escondido for eight days. There is a large Canadian community who flock to this region each winter which provided ample opportunity to socialize. This region is a bit of a jewel. The weather is great, it has a number of great beaches and the accommodations, food and cerveza are very reasonable priced. What more would a saddle tramp require?

Banana plantations are very common along this section of Highway 200.

I stopped to admire the scenery when these two Brits arrived in this bus. They are buskers who have been touring Mexico for a year and plan to be in Halifax this summer for the Buskers Festival.

It was a terrible feeling to crawl out of the ditch and look down at my beloved moto thinking “what kind of a mess have I put myself into this time”.

The scenic coast line along Highway 200.

The narrow door into the reception area of the Hotel Marie Teresa made for a tight fit as I rode the bike into the court yard.

The scenic coast line along Highway 200.

Bahia de Acapulco.

I considered removing this unit from the post and securing it to the handle bars of my moto.

On Sundays the beaches are busy as the local residents gather to enjoy the sea.

The beach at Puerto Escondido. Other then on Sundays the beaches are uncrowded.

My trusty steed get an oil / filter change.

This Puerto Escondido beach restaurant was a favorite breakfast spot. I thought the CCRR Sunday morning running / breakfast club gang would appreciate this photo.

Puerto Vallarta y Melaque

2007-02-28T11:42:00.000-05:00

A very pleasant visit I had during our twelve day stay in Puerto Vallarta with brother Ray and Joyce. This city is a large resort destination and over the months of January, February and March millions of Norte Americanos will flock to this region to enjoy the beaches, browse in the numerous shops, dine in the many of good restaurants and wander the picturesque cobblestone streets throughout the city's zona centro / central zone. While in Puerto Vallarta this saddle tramp would made the transition from traveler to tourist. During this period I would simply sit-back and enjoy the company of family, bask in the warmth of summer, walk the beaches - the malecon (sea wall) – cobblestone streets and indulge in the great Mexican food and quality beers.

While in Puerto Vallarta I experienced an interesting encounter on a crowded bus one evening. As I chatted with the lady who sat next to me I learned that she was from Fredericton, NB and that she and her husband were very good friends of my very good friends Lloyd and Murielle. Joan and her friend Judy were in this area for a three week holiday. A pleasant encounter this was.

On February 20^th we checked out of our hotel in Puerto Vallarta. Brother Ray and Joyce prepared to return to Ottawa and I set out in a southerly direction. On this day I would ride to the town of Melaque a small kick-back beach community. This town has become a hang-out for a large number of Canadians who flock to the area for the winter months. It is a great place to meet plenty of people as everyone is very laid-back and easy going. Living in this environment is very easy - An existence here is extremely simple yet the days pass quickly and one is never bored. It is always difficult to load up the motorcycle and ride away from these comfortable surroundings but go I must. On March 1^st I once again bid farewell to my friends and hit the open road.

A highlight of my visit to Melaque was a day tour I joined with 5 other Norte Americanos. We were transported to a remote area where a large coral reef was easily accessed from the beach. Over a two hours period we would snorkel above this reef. This region provided an extensive variety of colorful tropical fish - there for our viewing pleasure – much like swimming in a fish bowl. It was exciting to swim amongst these creatures yet it was somewhat intimidating to be amongst moray eels and sting rays. Following our swim we left this area and moved to another beach which was known for its large waves. Here we were provided with a crash course in the art of riding a boogie board. Unlike surfing this skill is a relatively easy to develop. As surfing requires the rider to stand erect on the board while riding the wave. A boogie board rider's upper body lies directly on the board as the wave carries them to shore. A most enjoyable day we experienced however I remained far to long in the hot sun without ample sunscreen and consequently got burned. Upon my return to the hotel I was provided with some quality lotions a number of ladies had with them which provided quick relief.

The month of February has brought another birthday to this saddle tramp. Over the past three year I have celebrated birthdays in New Zealand, Vancouver and Mexico. Life has been very kind to Jimbo.

I was saddened to receive an e-mail from my buddy Paul who informed me that Bill a fellow Canadian had been killed in a car crash while traveling in Mexico. I had first met Bill and his spouse Lea in San Carlos and later again in Rincon de Guayabitos. It isn't my intent to appear morbid with this comment but it is important for me to make this clear. I fully understand that motorcycle travel in any region comes with risk. If it is my misfortune that my end come to me this way - so be it. It has been an amazing journey.

Toys of the rich - This vessel was tied-up at the Puerto Vallarta Marina.

The view from the 9^th floor balcony of our Puerto Vallarta hotel room.

We traveled by jeep from Puerto Vallarta to the mountain village of San Sebastian where this lady operated a fonda / a small eating establishment with a very limited selection of traditional Mexican food. Here we were provided with a very tasty afternoon meal.

An in-shore fishery – this technique yielded very little fish during the time I observed this operation.

Sand – shade – palapa's and palm trees – a typical beach setting.

Mexico's tropical trees.

The many colors of Mexican pottery.

Mexico is a place of many bright colors.

Creatures of the sea - located in Bara de Navidad.

What's for dinner?

Paintings for sale – This artist has successfully captured a number of Mexico's images.

Passenger travel in the boxes of trucks is a common occurrence in Mexico.

A scene from small town Mexico.

An inner city bus. Bus service in most Mexican communities is relatively good. Although buses are normally crowded and typically without suspension making for a rough ride.

A scene from small town Mexico.

T-shirts for sale with images of heroes from Latin America's past.

A scene from small town Mexico.

A scene from small town Mexico. Note the absence of footwear

These crocodiles are in their natural environment. A fence keeps them away from nearby homes. A warning at the Boca de Iguanas RV park warns campers to keep an eye on dogs since crocodiles inhabit the swamp behind the camping area. That was ample warning for me not to consider camping at this site.

Estados de Jalisco y Nayarit

2007-02-15T17:32:00.000-05:00

I remained in Ricon de Guayabitos for a period of 12 pleasurable days. This town was originally developed as a tourist community for the Mexican population. However during the months of January, February and March a large influx of Canadians arrive at this beach resort community. Most of the hotel are at the lower end of the scale which makes them relatively inexpensive / affordable for extended stays. The community has an attractive beach which is rarely crowded. There are a number of inexpensive restaurants which serve good food. Many beach-side bars sell happy-hour beer for less then one dollar a bottle. The tourist are friendly and it is very easy to meet people. After a stroll on the beach one afternoon. I stopped at a bar for a beer. Sitting at one of the tables was a couple I thought I recognized. I approached them and stated “are you from Fredericton”? I had meet Bob and Rita a number of years ago – friends of a friend. They are now both retired and live in Fredericton except for two months when they visit this region to enjoy the summer like weather of Rincon de Guayabitos. A very nice visit we had.

Over coffee one morning at a small cafe where great coffee is served. I met Jim from Vermilion BC . Jim has been a regular to this area for a number of winters and is very familiar with the region's geography. Once he learn I was here with a motorcycle he enthusiastically talked about a great ride into the mountains to the village of Mazatan which is approximately 2 hours east of here. The following morning I topped-up my fuel supply and set-off riding along highway 200 towards the community of Compostela. This road took the rider up through the mountains via a series of steep climbs, switch-backs and tight turns. The view along this route was specular as I rode through the mountains covered in lush green forest. I rode into Compostela a very congested community of 16,000. The narrow cobblestones and dirt streets were very crowded with mid-morning pedestrian and vehicle traffic. As the traffic slowly moved along I continued to scanned the area looking for signage which would lead me out of this town and to the road to the village of Mazatan. I located a place to park the bike. As I was studying the map an individual approached me. With a simple “Buenos dia Senor - Por aqui se va a Mazatan?” / “good morning is Mazatan this way” I asked as I pointed in the direction I was heading. “Si” he stated and proceeded to provided directions in Spanish c/w hand signals. I understood none of the Spanish but from the hand signals I understood I was to continue in the same direction keep right and up a hill and onward. “Gracias Senor” and off I rode. This route would lead me out of Compostela and onto State road Nay 4. Within 10 kilometers I spotted the sign to Mazatan and turned off onto a dirt road. For the next 25 kilometers this dirt road would provide a great setting for some spectacular mountain and valley views combined with an added touch of adventure. I encountered an number of vehicles heading in the opposite direction the occupants waved and looked with interest as I rode-by. As I entered the village I continued riding onward towards it's center. Judging by the reaction of the locals I assumed there had been very few foreign visitors riding motorcycles here before me. I reached the community square turned and retraced my path. I reluctant refrained from taking photo's within the community - I felt as if I were intruding. I smiled and waving to the curious onlookers as I rode-by. On the outskirts of the village I spotted a tree which was in total blossom. Resting in it's shade stood a burro. I stopped the bike to take a photo. Just as I was ready to take the pic a little girl came to the edge of the road to determine what I was doing. Once she seen me she quickly run back to join the other children who were playing near their house. Fortunately I was able to capture the child in the photo. This pic happens to be one of my favorite to date.

On February 2nd I rode out of the town of Rincon de Guayabitos along highway 200 over the Sierra Madre mountains and located highway 15 east. This days ride would take me through a number of valley communities including the city of Tequila famous it's distilleries of the potent concoction of the same name. Guadalajara is Mexico's second largest city of four million residents. This is where I would terminate my days ride. I located an RV park on the outskirts of town and set up camp. At this park I met Ron and Beverly who are long term occupants of the park. Ron provided maps and information regarding the used of the public bus and the rail system into the inner city. The following morning I prepared to make my way downtown. Before I left the park I met George and Shirley who were also heading to that area. Darrell another longtime park resident from BC was acting as their guide and I was invited to join them. A very pleasant tour we had of this Atemajac valley city which was first settled in 1542. This community has a very impressive historic district know as Centro Historico which is outstanding due to it's fine architecture, hospitality, rich traditions.

After a two day visit to this historic city it was once again time to ride on. On Febrero 5th Dia de la Constitucion / Feb. 05 Constitution Day a National Holiday I selected a ride through a number of secondary roads. A very interesting ride this day would provide. I rode south from Guadalajara and then east to the city of Tlajomulco. As I exited this city I approached a security check point which was staffed with a dozen or more heavily armed police officers with automatic rifles. With a hand signal I was instructed to pull over. Two of the officers approached and began to speak to me in Spanish. With my standard reply I stated “pardon no entiendo” / I don't understand. He continued to speak and using hand signals I understood he was asking if I had fire arms. “Oh no” I replied. With more Spanish questioning I understood drugs – “Oh no drugs” I replied. He continued to interagate me but it wasn't working - I didn't understand any of his questions – he appeared to become frustrated and I thought he's going to have me unload my boxes. Fortunately a more senior officer who spoke limited English came to our aid. I was instructed to undo my riding jacket and I was frisked along my chest, back and legs - my pockets were then checked. With a few simple questions and after he reviewed the map I had attached to the handle bars complete with the list of communities I proposed to ride through on this day I was allowed to proceed. I did not feel threatened at any time during this process but I was happy to move on. From the check point I rode into the town of San Miguel de Cuyutlan. This small community appeared to be in the festive mood as banners were hung above the cobblestones streets. As I exited the town I encountered 3 men on horses - waves and smiles were exchanged. I continued on a very narrow cobblestones road which occasionally reverted to dirt. For the next 30 KM the road continued south along the shore of Laguna Cajititan through an area of pasture and farmland. There was very little traffic other then the occasional 4x4 truck and more men on horses tending to their cattle. I once again assumed that there had been very few who had selected this path as a touring route – this is the real Mexico and it's great to be here. I continued eastward where I crossed highway 44 - a north / south route between Guadalajara and Chapala. I located highway 35 and rode through the communities of Atequiza, Atotoniquillo and Poncitlan. My plan was to then ride south to San Pedro de Itzican which is on the northern shore of Luguna (lake) de Chapala. I could not locate the turn off so I stopped in an area with a small strip mall. As I reviewed my map I was approached by Daniel- an individual who operated a small business nearby. With my map in hand I indicated where I want to go. Daniel proceeded to provided directions in Spanish - none of which I understood. Soon there was gathering around the bike – everyone try to help. Someone was sent to the Farmacia / pharmacy to get someone who spoke English. Soon with the help of a translator I was provided with the information I required. There was much interest in the bike and my journey. Daniel noted I did not have a Mexican flag displayed on my luggage boxes and asked if I like one. “Absolutely” - I responded. Off he went to his shop where he fabricates reflective decals and soon returned with a flag of Mexico which he placed on my luggage box. I shook his hand stating “I was grateful for this gift and would be proud to display this flag”. A very nice token this was – and this came about from a chance encounter on this Febrero 5th Dia de la Constitucion / Constitution Day. These are the kind of encounters which add to the rewards of travel.

I then rode-off to find the rural route which follows the north shore of Laguna Chapala / Lake Chapala. This body of water is Mexico's largest natural lake. The water source from this lake is utilized to provide the domestic water requirements for Mexico City and Guadalajara – a combined population of over 22 million. A very picturesque ride this road provided through the small communities of San Pedro Itzican, San Jaun Tecomatlan and Santa Cruz de la Soledad. I arrived in the town of Chapala (pop 20,000) to find it's streets crowded with people out-and-about enjoying the festive actives of this Dia de la Constitucion. This community of Chapala is said to have a near perfect climate which has attracted what is probably the largest US and Canadian expat population around. After a brief visit in Centro area - I rode onto the town of Jocotepec where I located an RV park and camped for the night.

From Jocotepec I would ride in a south-westerly direction along highway 80 through the Sierra Madre Mountains. Another very scenic mountainous ride this route provided to the coastal communities of San Patricio- Melaque. As I rode down from the mountains and approached sea level I noticed a substantial increase in temperature. Soon the ambient temperature increased to 32C. Riding in these temperatures while totally enclosed from head-to-toe in riding-gear the motorcyclist most be conscience of the danger of heat exhaustion. Regular stops to find shade and to drink water are required. It felt good to arrive in the village of Melaque and find relief from the heat. I located the Hotel Bahia and booked a room for two night. In this establishment I found a large number of very friendly Canadian and US visitors. A very pleasant visit I had - having met and enjoyed the company of a number of very interesting individuals.

On the morning of February 8th I bid farewell to my friends at the Hotel Bahia and rode north along the coastal highway 200. This highway would take me to the resort city of Puerto Vallarta (pop 151,000). In this city I would meet-up with my brother Ray and spouse Joyce who have arrived from Ottawa. For the next two weeks we would share a very comfortable suite in a five-star hotel - Even a saddle-tramp must be pampered occasionally. A very pleasant visit we are enjoying.

Venders working the beach at Rincon de Guayabitos.

A cobblestone street in the town of La Penita.

High in the mountains on my way to Mazatan.

One of my favorite photo's – The little girl from Mazatan.

Down the dirt road through the valley to Mazatan.

More of the Sierra Madre mountain.

It is not unusual to find shrines with religious artifacts along Mexico's highways. This one was located in the mountains far from any community.

One of the many uncrowded beaches along the Pacific coast. This one is in the village of Melaque.

The Teatro Degollado a Guadalajara city land mark is impressive and beautiful it was open in 1866.

This is one of Guadalajara cathedrals it's construction was started in 1561 and is surround by four lovely plazas

The interior of a Guadalajara cathedral.

Strolling along the shops of downtown Guadalajara.

Daniel and son. Daniel gave me a Mexican flag which he installed on my luggage box

The root of all Tequila. The root from this cactus the "Agave Azul" is utilized in the Tequila processing. It grows readily in the Atemajac valley.

The Sierra Madre mountain provide some awesome riding and spectacular views.

Down a dirt road off highway 200 near Barra de Navidad to more spectacular views.

The Traveling Spirit

2007-01-27T14:45:00.000-05:00

The following was copied from a Blog prepared by David Orozo who I met while I was in San Carlos.

Many people wander through Sonora, either on fixed itineraries, or haphazardly. Of the former, many are “snow birds”, retirees who escape the cold along the Western North American land mass. These hardy folks arrive from Alaska, British Columbia (B.C.), Alberta, Manitoba, Washington, Idaho, Minnesota, Oregon, California, Utah, and Colorado.
The snow birds, like the birds migrating south, follow the river valleys east of the Sierra Madre, and mainly travel along the Panamerican Highway, from beach town to beach town. Some venture into colonial Mexico to visit places like Guadalajara, and San Miguel de Allende. Some go to jungle highlands, like San Cristobal de las Casa in Chiapas.
Many stop along the Pacific beach towns, small places like Rincon de Guayabitos, Melaque, Barra de Navidad, Lo de Marcos. Others bypass the mainland altogether and find what they are looking for in the Baja Peninsula. Others, find good fishing and tranquility in the Sonoran Desert and remain north of The Tropic of Cancer in San Carlos.
Or, if you’re like the rare travelling soul, the latter, you travel without a fixed itinerary, and guide yourself by what the locals say and your sixth sense confirms. That is what James Allard is doing. He stayed at the Totonaka RV Hotel for several days. Every morning I would walk out of my bungalow and pass his. Outside, by his door, I would walk by his large cherry red BMW cruiser.
One day I saw his door opened and introduced myself. We started talking about his travels.
“I started in the Eastern coast of Canada.” He said. “Then worked across as far up north the Yukon you can go with a vehicle. Then to Alaska and down the coast to California. I was supposed to go to Baja but ended up here.”
“Do you have a travel plan?” I asked.
“No, I just go where the locals recommend. But I figure I’ll go down along the Pacific and then to Yucatan, then up Eastern Mexico to Veracruz, then up back home.”
“You should visit Alamos. It’s only a few hours south of here, and it is the real Mexico.”
“Why did you choose to stay here.”
“I wanted to rest and ease my way into Mexico. Learn more about the country. I was also taken back by the beauty here. This place is gorgeous. I’ll definitely be back.”
I mentioned this blog, and he told me he was writing about his trip. He handed me his card, which has a picture of him on his motorcycle traveling into a valley with the snow caps in the distance. To the lower left in block yellow letters is: “Live the Dream.” On the upper left corner is a Canadian flag. When you turn the card it says:
James Allard
No Fixed Address
Web Blog: www.4nfa.blogspot.com
E-Mail: jamesallard2005@yahoo.ca

Estados de Sinaloa y Nayarit

2007-01-27T14:12:00.000-05:00

I been slow to update the blog. I may have fallen victim to that nice, easy and laid-back Mexican pace or perhaps I've simply gotten too lazy between ride..In this posting I'll provide a few tales of my excursions of the past month.

January 01, 2007 arrived with a hang-over following a good time and to many of those $20 Pesos beer at Frogy's a favorite Gringo Bar in San Carlos. Within a few days following the new year I packed-up the moto, bid farewell to the good friends I made in this community and rode out of this touristy town. The destination for this day's ride would be Alamos. This small community is located in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains an oasis of cobblestone streets and restored colonial mansions with lush courtyards. Many of the crumbling old mansions where recently purchased and have been restored to their former glory. This town of 8500 has been declared a national historic monument. In 1683 silver was discovered in this area and Alamos soon became a boom town of more then 30,000 one of Mexico's principal 18^th century mining centers.

After a two day visit in Alamos I left this community and road the 530 KM along the toll highway Mex 15 to the city of Mazatlan. I arrived in Mazatlan at 4 PM and located a RV park where I set-up camp. This northern section of Mazatlan is a large tourist area where huge hotels / condo lined the beach. A number of RV parks are home to snowbirds who traveled here in their land-yachts. I would remain in this RV park for 3 days where I met many of the friendly residents who were very interested in my adventure. Life in this environment was very laid-back - It would been easy to remain in this setting and enjoy my visit. However on Friday I made plans to ride east into the mountain to the city of Durango. When I checked my e-mail that day I had received a message from Nick and Lesley – riders I had met at the Horizons Unlimited meeting in Nelson BC in August, 2006. Their message indicated they were also in Mazatlan some 16 KM away from my location. I was able to ride across town and find them at the Hotel Siesta – it was great to reunite with them and share more travel stories. This couple is from England - they've shipped their motorcycle to Halifax and commenced their three year around-the-world tour in July 2006. Learn more about this very interesting couple and my good friends http://www.pooleglobaltrek.com/

Nick and Lesley were in Mazatlan to participate in the Spanish course provide by the Centro de Idiomas a local training institute – learn more about this program http://www.spanishlink.org/ - I was also interested in participating in this program and was also able to enroll in the Monday morning session. This course is an intense Spanish program for beginners which consisted of five hours of classroom sessions for five consecutive days. It was extremely difficult to sit and focus for the duration of this program after all these months of simply letting the mind wander off in all directions. In hindsight it is great to have completed this training which has provided a foundation to enhance my limited Spanish. However that week of training would rate as the most demanding five consecutive days I've experienced since I started this journey in June, 2006.

When I enrolled in the Spanish program I relocated from the RV park and moved into a hotel in the historic section of this beautiful community of Mazatlan. This region of the city provides a mixture of cosmopolitan restaurants, bars and art galleries against a backdrop of well-preserved colonial edifices and cobblestone streets. I throughly enjoyed my stay in this coastal city of 328,000. Once again it would have be very easy for me to park the bike and remain in this city for the next months. But on I must ride - I bid farewell to my good friends Nick and Lesley and I set-out for city Durango.

Highway Mex 40 from Mazatlan to Durango is approximately 310 kilometres of spectacular mountain riding over the gorgeous Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains. The winding road through the mountains is positioned significantly higher than most of the mountains peaks in this range so the rider is provided with amazing panoramic views of forest covered mountains and everywhere the views are stunning. Most of this highway is a series of up /downs and very tight curves and switchbacks which proves to be a blast to ride and the view is always highly scenic. Portions of this highway was dynamited out of sheer rock to provide access to this part of these coastal mountains. Spectacular - Terrifying - Memorable. That WOW feeling has once again returned - This has to be one of the top motorcycling and scenic roads of North America. In one area known as El Espinazo del Diablo - Devil's Backbone the road crosses a nine kilometre narrow bridge of rock with near vertical drop-offs on both sides. There are also some scary parts which occur when you are going into a blind switchback corner and are just ready to pitch the motorcycle into the curve you see an 18-wheeler coming the opposite way but as he swings wide and taking half to two thirds of your lane as well as all of his. Then you are just barely able to squeeze around him.

I completed this amazing ride in the city of Durango. As I rode into this city of 457,000 I considered making my way to the inner city to find accommodations. As I proceeded through the city, traffic became very heavy as we progressed through a series of one way streets. At this point I altered my plan and returned to the area where I entered the city. At this location I had spotted two motels. I rode off the road into one of these establishments which was totally enclosed by a 3 metre high concrete block wall. A young lady approached me and asked if I required accommodations to which I responded positively. She stated the cost was $240.00 Pesos ($24 dollars) and asked if I'd like to see the room. I assumed I misunderstood the cost and ask if she'd write the numbers out for me. Wow the prices is certainly right - lets have a look at the room. This room was attached to a garage where I could store the bike overnight. The facility was recently constructed, the room had nice décor, a large queen size bed and the washroom facilities were very clean. I paid the young lady, removed and stored the bags from the bike and off I went for dinner. When I returned later that evening I settled into my room, showered and started flicking through the TV channels. Much to my surprise there were two hard-core porn stations. At this point I realized I had booked into a Love Motel. Apparently these facilities provide couples with a room to rent by the hour - stash a car – take care of business and move on. In my case I wasn't going anywhere til morning so I settled in for the night. Other then the mattress on the bed was very hard (not intended for sleeping) these accommodations were great and the prices was very reasonable.

Following breakfast at a nearby Taco stand I set-out to once again ride the incredible mountain pass and return to Mazatlan. I made a number of stops along the way to take photo's and admire the view. At one stop I hurried to get back onto the road ahead of a vehicle which was quickly approaching. This vehicle eventually caught-up to me and I determined is was police car a member of the Policia Federal. I remained ahead of this vehicle for a number of kilometres but felt uncomfortable with this arrangement and soon I pulled-off to the side of the road - to take photo's!! Once back on the road within a half hour I approached a line-up of parked cars. There had been an accident and the police officer who had been following me was now directing traffic. I slowly made my way to the front of the line – with a hand signal I was requested to advance – as I approached the officer he stood in the road and told to stop – he looked me in the eye and with his hand at chest level palms facing down – he moved his hand up and down and with a heavy accent stated “Slo – Slo” - To which I responded Si Senior as I rode off. It wasn't long before I had overtaken all those vehicles who had been in the line-up ahead of me. A blast it was - an awesome ride this highway provided as I make my way back to the coastal community of Mazatlan.

My next destination would be San Blas which I reached by traveling in a southerly direction from Mazatlan. The tranquil ocean fishing village of San Blas provides the traveler was a real taste of Mexico. Although there is a small presences of Norte Americanos this community is not considered a tourist stop. While I rode along the cobblestone and dirt street exploring this community I located a hotel where I would spend the next 3 nights. These very basic, clean and comfortable accommodations c/w secure motorcycle parking would cost $130.00 Pesos / $13.00 dollars per night. The first evening I strolled over to the Plaza Principal / town square. The plaza comes alive in the evenings as adults and children gather to socialize and play in the square. It was interesting to sit-back an observe the activities. This community also has a number of very nice playa / beaches which are popular with the surfers and the boogie board community. These playa / beaches have palapas restaurants under which one can lounge and enjoy good food and drinks.

It was in San Blas where I encountered a very interesting individual. I met Chris one evening in the Plaza Principal. Chris now lives in his native Norway. He was educated as a veterinarian and spent most of his adult life in the USA. When he retired he single-handedly sailed his boat a ketch across Atlantic from New Jersey to Norway. He's traveled extensively in northern Canada and canoed many of our northern rivers. At the age of 83 he travels solo from Norway to visit children in USA. From Arizona he travels solo by bus to Mexico where he spend the winter months prior to returning to his home in Norway. I was very impressed this mans approach to life and the independence he displayed ... A very interesting man and a true gentlemen he is...

From San Blas I rode to town Ricon de Guayabotis. In this community I met-up with Paul who is from Edmonton. I first met Paul in Nogales Arizona where we had dinner together the evening before we crossed into Mexico. A week later we once again crossed paths. Over a couple of beer in San Carlos we talked about sharing an apartment at some point in the future. So here in Ricon de Guayabotis we've rented a two bedroom condo c/w kitchen - living room. This newly constructed complex is located one block from the beach – the rental cost is $460.00 Pesos per night / $23.00 dollars each. A great place to kick back for a few weeks.

One evening Paul and I went to a beach restaurant / bar known as Tequila Willy's. Here we purchased steaks which we BBQ on a large grill. In this crowded area I recognized a voice that sounded familiar. When I examined the individual – I wasn't sure if I knew this person. But then I heard his spouse call him by name – Bingo.. This person was Reno Cyr – I had worked with Reno in a power generating station a number of years ago. I had not seen him over the past 12 or more years. Reno and his family now live in Northern British Columbia and were in Mexico visiting for the week. A very pleasant encounter it was.

Alamos' Catedral Nuestra Senora de la Concepcion was built between 1786 and 1804.

The national historic monumental city of Alamos as viewed from El Mirador.

This northern section of Mazatlan is a large tourist area where huge hotels / condo lined the beach.

The view looking north from the balcony of the my room at the Belmar Hotel in the historic section of the beautiful community of Mazatlan.

This rocky prominence is home to El Faro / lighthouse which overlooks Mazatlan's harbour.

Mazatlan provides a mixture of cosmopolitan restaurants, bars and art galleries against a backdrop of well-preserved colonial edifices and cobblestone streets.

It's off to school I go..

The narrow streets of historic Mazatlan.

These VW beetles were produced at Volkswagen de México in Puebla. The production line was shutdown in September 2004.

The sun drops into the Pacific Ocean and provides a spectacular sky. As viewed form the balcony from my room at the Belmar Hotel.

Highway Mex 40 a spectacular mountain road over the gorgeous Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains.

Sections of highway Mex 40 was dynamited out of sheer rock to provide access to this part of these coastal mountains

The road through the Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains is positioned significantly higher than most of the mountains peaks in this range so the rider is provided with amazing panoramic views of forest covered mountains and everywhere the views are stunning.

Crossing another significant landmark – Tropic of Cancer.

The scenic Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains.

When seeking out accommodations my trusty stead must be provided with secure parking. Here it is safely parked in the courtyard of the Siesta Hotel. It is a strange feeling to ride through the hotel lobby past the reception desk into the courtyard.

This diver perched high on the rock ledge await the wave action to raise the water level in the pool.

One of the many works of art along Mazatlan's ocean walkway.

Down the hill around the bend and into the jungle.

Plaza Principal and Cathedral of San Blas.

Estado de Sonora, Mexico

2006-12-28T17:06:00.000-05:00

Prior to leaving Arizona I purchased motorcycle liability insurance. The insurance coverage provided by my Canadian broker was limited to travel within Canada and the USA. The existing policy did not provide coverage for Mexico. Since the Mexican authorities requires drivers to have proof of financial responsibility in case of an accident even if you are not at fault. I was required to purchase additional insurance. The cost of this policy was $278.00 for a six months period. To add to my Lonely Planet guide to Mexico and a Spanish phrase book I also purchased the Mexico Tourist Road Atlas – a comprehensive book of maps. I then exchanged 100.00 US dollars into Pesos.

At 08:30 on the morning of December 15^th I rode across the border from Nogales, Arizona into Mexico. Although I had prepared for this border crossing and was aware of the documentation authorities required - anxiety and anticipation ran high. As I rode into Mexico I was instructed to proceed via a hand signal from a customs official. This action did not surprise me because I was aware that at kilometre 21 on highway Mex 15 - I would arrive at an immigrations office. But first I would have to ride through this city of 180,000. Nogales is a major transit point between between the two countries with a busy city center. As I proceeded through the downtown I remained very focused on the signage for highway 15 and rode aggressively through the congested traffic. I certainly didn't want to get lost on this morning.

At kilometre 21 - I exited the highway and located a parking spot in a very busy and over crowded parking area. As I walked towards the offices I was approached by individuals who were selling automobile insurance, exchange dollars into Pesos and providing photocopying. I informed them I didn't require any of these services however since they spoke English I was able to get directions to where I should proceed. At the immigrations office I stood in line and waited for my turn to visit with an official. My passport was inspected and I was required to complete a Forma Migratoria Para Turista. Once completed this document was stamped and I was handed a copy. This document is my visa which indicates - as a tourist I can remain in this country for a maximum of 180 days.

From the immigrations office I then had to locate the office where I would be issued a vehicle permit. As I walked pass a young lady – in her broken English - asked if I required photocopies. I once again responded with a “no”. She pointed to my Forma Migratoria Para Turista / visa and stated I'd need a copy of that document if I required a vehicle permit. A photocopy was provided and she indicated which line-up I should join. Within a 3/4 hour it was my turn to speak with an official. Fortunately my documents were in order. I provided the custom official with my passport, vehicle registration, my newly issued visa and a photocopy of each of these documents. For a fee of $323.43 Pesos (approximately $32.00) which was charged to my credit card I was provided a Permiso de Importaction Temporal de Vehiculos / temporary imported vehicle permit. I was instructed to retain this document and return it to the border authorities once I leave the country. Failure to do so would imply I've illegally sold the motorcycle and the appropriate duties and tariffs will be charged to my credit card. I am grateful to the young lady who questioned my photocopy requirements. Had she not questioned the visa photocopy it would have taken me much longer to complete this transaction. My transition through customs when very smoothly compared to some of the stories relayed by other travelers.

With my newly issued documents safely stored I pointed my trusty steed in a southerly direction and rode off onto highway Mex 15 with great excitement as a whole new phase of this adventure is about to unfold.

Highway 15 is a toll highway and within the first ½ hour of the ride I approached a toll booth. The attendant spoke to me as I reached for my wallet. I looked at him - shrug my shoulders and stated no entiendo / I don't understand. I had no I idea what he said nor what the toll charge was so I handed him $ 200.00 Pesos ($20.00 dollars) thinking it would not exceed that amount. I was handed a receipt and a fist full of money which I stuffed in my pocket and rode off. A short time later painted white strips appeared across the width of the highway - the posted speed limit was reduced as the road lead into a small town of Santa Ana. A road sign indicated a tope 200 metres ahead. A tope is a speed bump with a signified rise in the pavement where riders / drivers must approach / cross them at a very slow speed. At these locations it isn't unusual to find people in the middle of the road selling all types of products – one individual had caged birds for sale. Merchants were set-up along the road side. Smoke was rising from a number of grill where food was being prepared. Although it was near lunch time and I could have eaten, the internal drive to move-on over powered the need for nourishment – so I rode on.

All gasoline throughout Mexico is sold by government monopoly Pemex / Petroleos Mexicanos. These stations are common along highway 15 and it was time for me to take-on fuel. As I rode up to the pump an attendant who is there to pump the fuel approached me. I dismounted / set the bike on the centre stand and unlocked the fuel cover. He speaks to me as points to the lower octane nozzle no I responded shaking my head in the international no-mode. I point to higher octane 93 nozzle with more head signals and see. He passes the nozzle to me and I top-up my tank. I remove the money from my pocket - which I had received from the toll booth attendant and proceed to hand him the largest number bill. “No – no” he replies as he pointed to some of the other bill. I extend my hand filled with coins and bills towards him and with a silly grim said “take what you need my friend”. He smiles - picks through my money - take a couple of bills – goes over to the cashier and returns with some coins. I had previously read that it is appropriate to tip the gas pump attendants so I left him with the change. Judging from the facial expressions – I assumed he was very well compensated for his efforts. As I rode off I thought “ I've got to get a handle on this Pesos thing”

Riding south on Mex 15 would take me into the city of Hermosillo a community of 600,000. There is no bypass around this centre - the highway become a series of streets thought the city. Once again all sensory monitoring is placed on high alert and the riding mode to aggressive. I simply can not afford to get lost in this city – fortunately I managed to successfully maneuver through the traffic and find my way back onto the highway without incident.

Another 150 KM and I'll terminate this days ride in the small fishing community of San Carlos. It been a very interesting day and I look forward to enjoying a couple of cold ones. The ride along this divided highway has provided a number of interesting observations – there has been an abundance of large SUVs and shinny 4x4 trucks with California license plates loaded with household good who have passed me well exceeding the post 100 KM/HR – there has been two different military check points in the adjacent north bound lane - I was allowed to proceed through a police check point without being stopped – in some areas along the highway there is a significant drop off from the edge of the pavement (no added width) - a truck towing a loaded utility trailer was parked in the left / passing lane - as I rode by I noticed someone was removing a flat tire.

After exiting the desert highway Mex 15 I rode in a westerly direction to the town of San Carlo which is located on the Golfo de California. As you approach this community one is provided with a refreshing cool sea breeze and a spectacular view of the Bahia (Bay) San Carlos. I located the Hotel Fiesta Real and booked a room for two nights. Although the daily rates for this facility were double those across the road - I elected to stay here because my lonely planet book had provided this establishment with a very good review and I needed a treat.

My stay at the Hotel Fiesta Real was eventually extended to two weeks. It is a great facility with spacious squeaky clean rooms without telephone, radio or television, a large balconies with an unobstructed view of the sea. Good restaurants / bars are within walking distance where they'll concoct a powerful margarita and beers sells for $200 Pesos ($2.00 dollars) a bottle. It is a great location to simply sit back and relax – enjoy walks on uncrowded beaches, learn a few essential Spanish phrases and determine the buying power of coins and Pesos bills. During my stay I finished reading my book - “On the road” an entertaining story by Jack Kerouac which is based on the travels of a group of young men who travel from New York to San Francisco and back a number of times in the late 1940. I selected this book on a recommendation from nephew Tim - A good read it was.

During this Christmas period San Carlos was over taken by Norte Americanos. Because of the large presents of Canadians and Americans in the region the true flavor of this community is lost - English is readily spoken - many of the local residents who work in bars and restaurants speak English - most tourist don't attempt to speak Spanish and some continue to use US dollars. In many aspects this community is almost an extension of Arizona. Because of this large anglo presence my stop over in this community has eased the transition into Mexico - it was easy to meet plenty of friendly people who can answer my many questions. On the negative prospective San Carlos has fallen victim to the Dollar and may have lost it Soul.

Sitting around a bar one evening trading border crossing stories over a couple of cerveza / beer I learned that a fee associated with the Forma Migratoria Para Turista (my travel visa) must be paid if I travel out side the Estado de Sonora (State of Sonora). This payment can be made at the local bank. One afternoon with my Forma Migratoria Para Turista in hand and $220.00 Pesos I walk over to the Banamex. As I walked into this establishment it reminded me of an outpatients / emergency waiting room in a Maritime hospital – lots of people sitting around waiting. Scanning the room I thought “and who'd be next in line to visit with one of the four tellers” who were working behind a wall of Plexiglas. I stood back and observed as the next person entering the bank and walk over to a device which issued her a card. Okay now it's my turn – as I examined this device I determined there were three options and depending on your business transaction you'd select a number to stand in-line to see that particular teller. Since there wasn't a button for Forma Migratoria Para Turista I selected the one which had among other activities listed foreign exchange. “That close enough for me” I thought as I sat and waited for my number to appear on the digital display mounted on the plexiglas wall. Within ½ hour my number appeared and I approached the teller. I slid the $220.00 Pesos with my Forma Migratoria Para Turista through the plexiglas port-hole. The teller speaks to me in Spanish – I once again shrug my shoulders and say “pardon no entiendo” (sorry I don't understand) - the adjacent teller comes to our aid and tells me that payments for the Forma Migratoria Para Turista cannot be accepted after 3 PM and since it now 4 PM this transaction can not be completed. Okay, I now understand the process and I'll return at some later date.

On the evening of December 24^th I joined a group of nine other Gringos for an evening of great food, drinks and tales of the past. An entertaining evening it was with a very interesting group of Canadians & Americans who had traveled to this region in their land yachts and who have no intentions of migrating north until mother nature loosen her winter grip.. It was neat to dress for Christmas dinner in short sleeves and sandals – to share pre dinner drinks on an outdoor balcony over looking the sea. Although stuffed turkey was on this evenings selective dinner menu I enjoyed a great Pescado a la Plancha / Grilled Fish which was delicious. A number of glasses of champagne were consumed over the evening as I learned about the exploits of my new friends. A parade of large silhouetted power and sailboats sail by - their strings of dancing lights reflected from the glassy surface. Fire work were launched from the beach below and the sky explodes with red, yellow and orange. As the evening came to a close we all agreed to meet the following evening at Bob and Carol's RV for round of refreshments. Another great day this has been in the life of the saddle tramp.

Special thanks to those who forwarded Christmas Wish – It always nice to hear from you..

Los Marinas de San Carlos - Ninety nine percent of the floating real estate in this marina belong to the Gringos.

The blog's author working in sweat-shop like conditions preparing a blog entry. Is there pity out there?

The rugged landscape of Costa Bella – San Carlos.

The Tetakawi Mountains are said to have fortified the spirits of the ancient native worriers.

The rugged landscape of Costa Bella – San Carlos.

The twin-peaked Cerro Tetakawi. For those who remember the movie Catch 22 – This is where the filming occurred - these are the peaks where the airplane was crashed.

A view from the balcony of my very comfortable accommodations at Hotel Fiesta Real.

A late December stroll on an tropical isolated beach is a strange phenomenon for this Maritimer.

Pelicans feed on a school of needle fish. As an attractive water fowl these creatures would fall into the sea gull category but they are an interesting bird to observe.

San Carlos an oasis where the desert meets the sea.

Mexico 1

2006-12-19T12:50:00.000-05:00

Ola y Feliz Navadad
Hello and Merry Christmas
A brief update. I've arrived in Mexico on December 15 having crossed the border from Nogales Arizona. I am presently in a small fishing town of San Carlos approximately 350 KM from the border. This is a beautiful region located on the "Golfo de Calfornia" or what we'd call the Sea of Cortes. The weather as you'd expect is awesome. I am staying in some very comfortable beachfront accommodations with a great balcony view of the sea / By far these are the best accommodations of the journey /I needed a treat. I plan to remain in this area for a few weeks. I require some down time to adapt to the culture, the currency, the food which I've enjoyed to date and to learn a few Spanish phrase. I'll provide a more detailed update in the next week. Internet service is rare in the region.

Arizona II

2006-12-11T21:54:00.000-05:00

The past two weeks in Arizona have been relatively easy with more down time then time in the saddle. I had a great visit to "The Town too Tough to Die," Tombstone. I remained in this historic community for two days and enjoyed roaming the streets and learning about it's colorful history and characters.

A walking down Allen Street - it isn't hard to imagine how the town must have looked back in the glory days of the old west. Near one end of this street is the famous Bird Cage Theater standing much as it did over 100 years ago. In the 1880s it was not only a theater but also served as a saloon, a gambling hall and brothel. It was open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The Bird Cage was the scene for twenty-six deaths during its eight years of business. Today a visitor can walk through the museum and soak in the history of this interesting old place. Historic figures such as Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday, and Bat Masterson once walked on these very floorboards.

In the opposite part of town is the location of the gunfight at the O.K. Corral. A gunfight which has been portrayed in numerous films. Its importance is that it has come to symbolize the struggle between law-and-order and open-banditry and rustling in frontier towns of the old west where law enforcement was often thin.

One evening I had dinner at Big Nose Kate's Saloon (her claim to fame was the fact that she was Doc Holliday's girlfriend). I was very surprised to find Moosehead Lager beer was on-tap in this establishment. I questioned the barmaid about it's popularity – to which she indicated it was one of the more popular brands. She was equally surprised when I informed her that this product was imported from New Brunswick, Canada.

From Tombstone I moved on to Tucson and Phoenix. Although I enjoyed my stay in both of these large centers I much prefer the surrounding of the smaller and rural communities.

In Phoenix I stopped by Jesse Luggage Systems to complete repairs to my luggage boxes. These boxes and the mounting hardware had been damaged during a fall on the Dempster Highway in Canada's Yukon. Although temporary repairs had been completed in Dawson City further adjustments were required from the manufacturer. Here, I was provided with very good service from Allen and Neil. Some of mounting hardware was removed from the bike and placed in the jigs for proper alignment. The boxes and covers were reshaped, latching mechanism adjusted and gaskets replaced. Although close inspection of these boxes will reveal evidence of a spill their function has been restored to 100 percent. A satisfied customer I am. Following the repairs I was provided with a tour of this busy facilities.

While in Phoenix I also completed the 40,000 KM service on the motorcycle and had new tires installed at BMW Motorcycles of Scottsdale.

The motorcycle's registration was to expire in early 2007. I was able to renew and pay for this document on-line via Services New Brunswick website. The document was forward to my mailing address in Fredericton, New Brunswick. My good buddy Gerry then forwarded the package general delivery to the post office in Red Rock, Arizona. On December 12^th I took delivery of the package. To my good friends Mike and Bernie at SNB – “the system works”..

A visit to Jesse Luggage Systems in Glendale / Phoenix. Allen and Neil make the necessary repairs to the Luggage Boxes which were damaged in August when the moto and I went down on the Dempster (Dumster) Highway in Canada's north. Learn more about Jesse Luggage Systems www.jesseluggage.com

The saguaro is the largest cactus in the USA commonly reaching a height of 12 metres and an age of up to 200 years. It is common in southern Arizona and extending into western Sonora (Mexico).

The name Boot Hill comes from the fact that many of these graves were filled with people that died suddenly or violently with their boots on. The burial ground still contains the remains of the bad guys and good guys who populated the Old West, so there's considerable historical significance associated with the small patch of rocky ground.

John Heath was taken from the county jail and lynched by a mob in Tombstone on February 22, 1884. Heath was the alleged leader of a gang who shot up a store in nearby Bisbee during an armed robbery in December, 1883.

The graves that elevated Boot Hill to its place in infamy as a theme for Western movies, cowboy novels and shoot'em-up lore are those of Billy Clanton and the McLaury brothers, Frank and Tom victims in the renowned Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. The marker denoting their graves notes that they were "murdered on the streets of Tombstone, 1881."

The alleged murderers were the Earps - Wyatt, Virgil and Morgan - and John "Doc" Holliday, none of whom ever served jail time for the alleged murders, probably because Virgil Earp was the Tombstone marshal and reportedly had recruited the others as special deputy policemen.

This is Sgt. Jeffery Howard a police officer by profession but in his spare time dresses in-period costume and volunteer's as an historian. I had a very interesting discussion with Jeff who was able to answer my many questions regarding the wild west.

Tombstone, the "town to tough to die" is known for its famous lawmen / infamous outlaws and the Gunfight at the OK Corral.

The court yard scaffold is a replica of the 1880's version A much larger structure was erected for the five men Dan Dowd, Red Sample, Tex Howard, Bill Delaney and Dan Kelly. They were "legally hanged, March 8, 1884." After being found guilty of killing several people during a robbery in Bisbee. All were hanged on a single scaffold in the Tombstone Courthouse yard. A single large grave at Boot Hill is the resting place for these individuals.

Tombstone's court house was restored to its original condition and became a state historic park. Along with artifacts of the court building, it also displays many other relics from early Tombstone.

Bird Cage Theater standing much as it did over 100 years ago. In the 1880s it was not only a theater but also served as a saloon, a gambling hall and brothel.

Canyon Lake is located within the rugged terrain of the northeastern Sonoran Desert on route 88 east of Phoenix. This lake was formed by damming the Salt River.

Bulletin

2006-12-02T14:33:00.001-05:00

Introducing Ryan Jamie Allard born in Ottawa on November 23rd - Proud parents are Tara and number one son Daryl. A grandfather I become – Very good news that is..

Arizona / New Mexico

2006-11-24T00:09:00.000-05:00

Arizona / New Mexico
I continued the Grand Circle tour from Four Corners heading west towards Arizona's Grand Canyon. The ride along Highway 160 would take me through the Navajo Nation's Land which covers about 27,000 square miles (70,000 square KM) occupying all of Northeaster Arizona and extending into Utah and New Mexico. It is the largest land area assigned primarily to a Native American jurisdiction within the USA .
I would spend a day in Grand Canyon National Park – a spectacular setting it is.. To allow tourists to view portions of the Canyon a road has been constructed along the Canyon's Southern Rim. There are designated viewing areas with limited vehicle parking spaces. Although this was the first week of November traffic in this park was noticeable higher then that in any of the previous parks I have visited. Some jockeying was required to advance to the edge of the observation areas for quality viewing. I spoke with a Park Attendant who indicated that during the peak tourist season it is not unusual to have row upon row of tourist standing along the observation areas.
Following my tour of the Canyon I stopped to view the Imax Movie “The Grand Canyon”. I am a fan of IMax movies and this one did not disappoint. Perhaps there was more Hollywood in this film then required however the feeling of being totally immersed in the film as a helicopter flies through the canyon was exhilarating.. Following the film I located a Helicopter Tour group and purchased a seat on a flight scheduled for the following morning. At 09:00 five other individuals and I were weighed (weighting was required to determine seating arrangement) and provided a orientation on helicopter passenger safety. We were then marched off to an awaiting helicopter and strapped into our seats. What a treat this ride turned out to be. It was well worth the admission fees. I love flyng in helicopters especially over areas as spectacular as that of the Grand Canyon. Learn more about these helicopter tours www.papillon.com Sadly all of my photo's of the the Grand Canyon have either been deleted or filed somewhere in the system. At this time I can not retrieve them.
I then moved on to the city of Flagstaff where I would take a break and remain stationary for five days to enjoy some R & R. During an afternoon stroll though this community's historic downtown I spotted a sharp looking adventure motorcycle a Triumph Tiger. As I walked over to inspect this moto an adventure GS pulls up and parks next to the Triumph. This was how I met Dave and Andy a couple of very resourceful adventure riders. Over coffee they shared stories of their travels through Mexico. They told me about “The Flying Dorffini” a great motorcycle shop where I had my oil and filter replaced at 35,000 KM. I was invited to join them and some of their buddies for a Saturday evening BBQ followed by a movie projected on Matt's large screen entertainment center. The movie we viewed was “Mondo Enduro” a film about a bunch of Brits riding around the world on 350cc motorcycle. A very entertaining evening it was.. That night I was invited to stay over at Dave and Karen's house an offer I did not pass up.

On Monday morning of November 13th I once again meet-up with Dave, Andy and Scott and together we rode off to Albuquerque. A most enjoyable ride it was. We were off to the BMW dealer in Albuquerque to attend a presentation by Glenn Heggstad - the striking viking www.strikingviking.net an adventure motorcyclist who has rode to some of the world's most remote regions. A very informative and entertaining presentation it was. Sadly the following morning it was time to say goodbye as my buddies return to Flagstaff. Special thanks to these individuals for being very kind to this vagabond.
While in Albuquerque I was invited to Randy's house for dinner. Randy a resident of this area rides a BMW R-1200-RT. I met him one morning in Flagstaff where he had stopped for coffee on one of his rides. It was great to be provided with a home cooked meal. Although Randy's home is in New Mexico he is a very accomplished boater having navigated all of the coastal waters of western and eastern USA. Between boats and motorcycles we had much to talk about.
On recommendation by Randy and Andy I would set out to ride a scenic route north of Albuquerque through the communities of Jemez Spring, Los Alamos, Espanola, Taos, Las Vegas and Santa Fe.. The scenery through this area was beautiful and some of the communities provided much interest.
Los Alamos is home to “Los Alamos National Laboratory”. It is one of the largest multidisciplinary institutions in the world. Among other types of classified research which is undertaken here work towards the design of nuclear weapons is ongoing. Road work was underway in this community c/w the installation of a number of security checkpoint areas ie boarder like crossing kiosks.
Taos - When I rode into this community I knew I would have to stay for 3 or 4 days in this region. It is a small town with a strong Native, Spanish and American presents and a great location for some R and R. This region contains the Native community of Taos Pueblo which has been continuously inhabited for more than 1000 years. It's most prominent architectural feature is a multi-storied residential complex of reddish-brown adobe built between 1000 and 1450 A.D. This facility has been designated a National Historic Landmark and a World Heritage Site.

From Santa Fe I would ride south to Fort Sumner where I would learn about the exploits of Bill the Kid. By the age of 21 he could be linked to the death of 12 men - On July 14, 1881 the young outlaw was killed by sheriff Pat Garrett. Billy the Kid has grow into perhaps the most famous and symbolic figure of the American old west.

I then moved on to the city of Roswell which is famous for the “Roswell UFO incident”. This event involved the recovery of crash materials near this community in July 1947. This incident has since become the subject of intense speculation and research. There are varying views on what actually happened. The US military maintains that what was recovered was a top-secret research balloon which had crashed. However many UFO researchers believe the wreckage was that of a crashed alien space ship and that the military covered up the space ship recovery. For some Roswell is synonymous with UFOs and likely ranks as the most famous alleged UFO incident.

I rode from Roswell heading west up over the Capitan and the Vera Cruz Mountains. Through the Valley of Fire State Park - an area which contains miles of buckled twisted lava which is part of an extensive flow from several volcanoes. Pass the Trinity Site - the location of the worlds first Atomic bomb explosion - a barren land of grassy prairie and sandy desert. Continuing west to the City of Socorro where I would stop for a few days during the Thanksgiving break and wait for the weekend's traffic to subside. It was in this community where I was provided with a pleasant surprise. The local grocery store carried Moosehead Lager beer. A beer which is brewed and bottled in St. John, New Brunswick. I did purchase a box of this produce to provide a little taste of home. The interesting point was - the cost of this beer in New Mexico was $10.34 ($11.86 cdn). If I were to purchase this product in the same community where it is brewed and bottled it would cost over $18.00 cdn – Go Figure!!!

Over a number of days I would ride west from Socorro along highway 60 to the National Radio Astronomy Observatory - one of the world's premier astronomical radio observatories. I would spend a couple of hours touring this very interesting facility. Learn more about this facility www.vla.nrao.edu

Onward along highway 12 and 180 through the Gila National Forest known for it's scenery ranging from high mountains with Aspen and Douglas fir to warm prairie like semi-arid lowlands. In Silver City I met Bob a biker from Alabama who was heading to Las Vegas. Over dinner Bob suggested a very scenic ride east along highway 152 through the Mimbres mountains.

The following morning under sunny skies I located the mountain pass and was treated to a spectacular ride with plenty of ups / downs and tight chase your-tail-turns. I then headed south on route 27 to city of Las Cruces. A community which claims to have superb year-round weather with 350 days of sunshine. This days ride was terminated in El Paso, Texas. A large city of 600,000. As I rode into this city the Marty Robin's tune was rolling around in my head “Out in the west Texas town of El Paso I fell in love with a Mexican girl”.

On an e-mail recommendation from number one son Daryl - I rode north to White Sands National Monument. A gigantic sea of sparkling white gypsum. This park cover an area of 300 square miles (777 square KM) of glistening white sand with it's wave like dunes. Engulfed within these elements felt like I have been transposed to snow fields of the far north. This visit provided an interesting experience – my perception / sensory information tells me this white stuff should be snow but yet it isn't – amazing our Mother Nature is..

The region near the city of Alamogordo has a significant military presence. The nearby Holloman Air Force Base is home to the Stealth F117A Nighthawk aircraft. An alternate landing strip for the space shuttles is also located here. The White Sands Missile Range - a test area of 3200 square mile (8300 square KM) is located near by. The community is also home to the New Mexico Museum of Space History – a very interesting tour this facility provided.

It was in the City of Alamogordo where I experienced the first precipitation in eight weeks. Fortunately I had booked into the motel by the time the rain commenced. The storm although short in duration was extremely intense. The following morning I rode east to Cloudcroft into Sacramento Mountains. Within a hour of my ride I was forced to alter my plans. The precipitation in the mountains came as snow and the road was becoming extremely hazardous. I forced to turn around and retrace my path. With my re-established bearings in a southwesterly direction I terminated this days ride in the town of Demings.

From Demings I headed south towards the Mexican boarded into the small community of Columbus. Turning west I rode the remote and sparsely traveled highway 9. This highway would provide a very scenic ride through a series of remote regions of desert like semi-arid lowlands combined with the mountain crossing over the Cedar Mountain Range, across the continental divide at the Pyramid Mountains and finally across the Peloncillo Mountains into Arizona. The US border patrol personnel were very visible along this ride. I was waved through a number of checkpoint as vehicles were pulled over to be inspected. Considering the number of police officers and marked vehicles I spotted along this ride the moneys dedicated to this activity must be enormous.

Arizona's Sedona Area

Route 66 - the Main Street of America - the Mother Road - was one of the original federal routes. It originally ran from Chicago through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California before ending in Los Angeles - a total of 2,448 miles (3,939 km).

Riding into late November is posing a few problems. I did proceed over the next 7 miles without incident.

Well I'm a standing on a corner in Winslow Arizona and such a fine sight to see - It's a girl my Lord in a flatbed Ford slowin' down to take a look at me. Man I love those Eagle tunes “Take it Easy”

On our ride to Albuquerque we stopped to check out these prehistoric creatures.. Scott, Dave and Andy

I do like this New Mexican architecture.

I stopped here for lunch in the community of Jemez Springs, New Mexico. A great spot it was.

The landscape of Northern New Mexico..

The Rio Grande flows from its headwaters in the San Juan Mountains of southern Colorado for 1,865 miles (4830KM) to the Gulf of Mexico near Brownsville, Texas.

The picturesque Rio Grande.

Taos Pueblo has been continuously inhabited for more than 1000 years. This a multi-storied residential complex of reddish-brown adobe (sun-dried brick made of clay and straw) built between 1000 and 1450 A.D. has been designated as a National Historic Landmark and a world heritage site.

This bridge expands New Mexico's Rio Grande Gorge which is 800 feet (244Metres) deep.

Taos Ski Valley.. This ski resort was open for business within a week of my visit.

The City of Roswell is synonymous with UFOs and Aliens.

The landscape of southern New Mexico.

A snow bank or a sand dune?

This route through the desert resembles that of a Maritime mid-March road.

Nevada / Utah

2006-11-18T20:20:00.000-05:00

My entry into Nevada was via the lower southwestern portion of the state. As one local put it “ I rode over the hump and into Pahrump, Nevada”. I would spent the night in this city. It was interesting to observe the sights and sounds of this community. Every public establishment – gas bar, grocery stores, coffee shops, restaurants had a designated area for slot machines. Main street was the home for a number of casino's and other establishments which I had never before seen – brothels. That evening I set out to check a couple of casinos – these establishments offer no appeal to me – I found them to be very smokey / noisy and filled with individuals who undoubtedly have more appropriate places to be dropping coins. I moved on. Although the brothels did create much curiosity for me I was not brave enough to walk into these establishments and check them out. I noted billboard advertising a Brothel Art Museum and decided I would check this place out the following morning. I did ride the 25 miles (40KM) out of my way only to find the museum closed. Unfortunately I've learned nothing about this business worthy of passing along to you.

I rode into Las Vegas on a Friday morning thinking I should spend a couple of days in this city. After riding the strip in mid morning traffic I stopped at a couple of budget hotels to find they both were booked for the weekend. That's okay with me I thought I don't really want to stay here anyway. So I rode off into the desert along I-15 until I reached Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Lake Mead is a very large reservoir in the Mohave Desert which was created when Hover Dam was built on the Colorado River. In this desert park I located a camp site and set up shop. Here I would spend the next 2 nights and 3 days exploring the Mohave Desert, Hover Dam and a number of State Parks.

Over a period of two weeks I would ride a spectacular circuit know as the “Grand Circle”. This 1,000 miles (1600 KM) loop would take me through a number of southern Utah's National Parks. A region famous for incredible scenery, red rock pinnacles, unique rock formations and deep canyons. It is a region consisting of Zion, Bryce, Capital Reef, Canyonland and Arches National Parks, Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monuments. All of these Parks are within the Colorado Plateau which make up an immense area of land bordered on the south by the Sonoran Desert and Painted Desert, on the west by the Great Basin of Nevada, on the east by the Rocky Mountains, and on the north by the Uinta Mountains of Utah.

A wordsmith I am not and I do not have the skill to describe the beauty of these National Parks and Monuments so for your viewing pleasure I posted additional photo's - I trust you'll enjoy the view.

In Nevada I stopped to check out this Brothel Art Museum but it was closed and no I did not stop at the brothel down the street.

Bryce National Park
One of the many mountain tunnels.
Bryce National Park
Zion National Park
Zion National Park
Canyonland National Park
Canyonland National Park
Arches National Park
Arches National Park

Goblin Valley State Park, Utah.

Arches National Park
Zion National Park

Enclosed within the canyon at Bryce National Park.

Body parts are spread within Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico at Four Corners. This is the only location in the USA where four States share a common point on their border.

Nevada's Mohave Desert

The Hover Dam is a National Historic Landmark and has been rated by the American Society of Civil Engineers as one of America's Seven Modern Civil Engineering Wonders.

All traffic over the dam had to first proceed through a security check point.

Nevada's Valley of Fire State Park.

Zion National Park
Arches National Park
Zion National Park
Canyonland National Park
Arches National Park

Goblin Valley State Park, Utah

It was a delight to arrive upon this scene. One of the cowboys asked if I wanted to join-in.

An amazing ride down through the canyon.

Calfornia

2006-11-04T15:47:00.000-05:00

Eat, Sleep and Ride.... An awesome 12 days of riding California has provided. I rode in this State on a rainy Sunday afternoon on October 15th making my entry via the North West corner from Oregon. By 6 PM I had settled into the Travel Lodge Motel in the town of Crescent City. The office manager suggested a Chinese Restaurant as one of the possible dinner options. So off I go for a very enjoyable meal c/w fortune cookie with 2 messages one reads “A bold and dashing adventure is in your future within the year”. All right - Now that's good news – That I'd enjoy. The second note stated “You will receive unexpected support over the next week. Accept it graciously”. I'll make reference to this message later in the posting.
Rain continued the following morning with light showers under cloudy skies. I decided I would move on. I stopped at the Redwood Nation Park information center. The Ranger on duty, a biker fan, was very interested in the R-1200-GS and my ride. A very nice chat we had. He suggested I ride a dirt road through the park then connect with a secondary road onto highway 199 which would lead me back into Crescent City. So off I go to find this Jejediah Smith road. What a treat this ride turned out to be on a rainy Monday morning. This mostly single lane road meandered through a forest of huge Redwoods. I encountered 3 SUVs over the length of the ride heading in the opposite direction. It felt like I was out here on my own in this peaceful forest of giant Redwoods. When I reached the end of the road I turned around and rode the same route back into town. Why would I ride on a highway when there is an option to ride a great dirt road. At the end of the ride the GS is covered in mud and looking good again.
By noon the rain became more intense so I decide to remain in Crescent City for another night. I book a room at the Front Street Motel – I was provided a room upstairs and away from the parking lot. I thought I would take the remainder of this rainy day to work on the blog. Although the sign outside the motel stated wireless Internet access - the signal was much too weak thus rendering the system useless. So I settled down and worked off line and caught up on some reading. An easy uneventful afternoon / evening it turned out to be. However, at 1 AM I was awaken by the sound of the anti-thief alarm on my bike. I jumped up out of bed thinking “shit, someone is messing with my bike”. Where am I - where are my pants - where are my boots. Before I could get dressed the alarm reset - thus indicating no further bike movement. I could not see the bike from my room – what should I do? I can't go out and fight with a couple of thugs but I can't let them mess with my bike. I had to go check – I waited a few minutes and went outdoors – there was no one around and the bike remained covered with the tarp. I carried a tarp which I use to cover the bike overnight while parked in these environments – I am assuming someone attempted to remove the tarp from the bike which was on its center stand. Perhaps while leaning on the bike or putting on the tarp it causing the rear wheel to drop a few millimetres and activated the alarm. Whatever had happened the alarm functioned properly and frightened the intruders off. I returned to my bed for a very restless night and a very early morning get away.

I continued riding along the coast of California to the town of Eureka where I would spent the night. The following morning I rode away from a very foggy coastal city and had headed westward into the Coastal Mountains Range through the Shasta-Trinity National Forest to the City of Redding and beyond to Lassen Volcanic National Park. The advantage of touring in mid October is the limited traffic within these remote areas. I experienced a very pleasant ride through Lassen Volcanic National Park. Sunday and Monday's coastal rain had provided a blanket of snow in the elevated regions of this park at 10,457 feet. It was neat to experience this season's first traces of snow. The warmth of the mid October sun had cleared all of the snow from the road thus providing great autumn riding. However, in one area where the water from melting snow had been running across the road during the early afternoon's sunshine was now turning into slush / ice as the sun dropped behind the mountain and the cool air set in. It was scary to come upon this product with very little or no warning. Fortunately the line I selected was ice free and I proceeded without incident. To quote my Alaskan riding buddy John “that experience initiated a 8.5 on the rectum tightening scale.” I noticed a Park Ranger as I rode by a picnic area – I stopped to inquire if I'd experience more of these surprises before I left the park. I was informed that I would have clear sailing as I dropped to the lower elevations – off I go for some easy riding to the community of Red Bluff where I would spend the night.

The ride south through the Sacramento Valley has brought back traces of summer. Not since the days of late August in the Okanagan Valley have I experienced these summer temperatures. The Sacramento Valley is sheltered by the Sierra Nevada's to the east, the Coastal Mountains to the west and the Siskiyou's to the north. This region is lush flat grasslands rich in citrus, nut orchards and large cattle ranches. I selected a number of secondary routes through this scenic valley which provided a very pleasant ride. At Yuba City I located highway 20 and rode west into the mountains to Tahoe National Forest and into the resort communities of Lake Tahoe. A section of highway worthy of comment was a pass over the top of a mountain in the National Forest. This road was barely wide enough for two vehicles – without guard rails and the potential for a drop of 20 metres or more over a very sharp edge – an attention getter indeed and worthy of note. I would spend a day in this region exploring Squaw Valley Ski Resort the home of 1960 Winter Olympics Games, the picturesque town of Lake Tahoe and a ride around the lake's perimeter.

From South Lake Tahoe on a cool bright autumn morning I set out for Yosemite National Park. The ride would take me into Nevada to locate highway 395 - continuing south on this route I would returned to California and ride through the Sierra Nevada Mountains, lush valleys, the Toiyabe National Forest, Mono Lake and finally into Yosemite National Park. This day's ride turned out to be as much about the journey as the destination. A great ride it was and Yosemite is an amazing place. Yosemite National Park is another region worthy of a “WOW” – As I rode into this boxed canyon a granite wall 7 miles long and 1 mile across with near vertical cliffs 3,000 feet high stood before me. One of the cliffs known as El Capitan is 3600 feet and is one of the world largest piece of exposed granite. It was easy to become absorbed in this place and lose track of time. The sun was low in the sky when I left the park and darkness had set in by the time I reached the town of Merced where I booked a room at the Travel Lodge Motel. This being the off-season, motel rates have become competitive and affordable. The town of Merced is located in the San Joaquin Valley and thus maintains extended summer temperatures. For the next two days I would remain in this region – pitch a tent – relax and enjoy the sun's warmth. It was good to be sleeping outdoor again. Although the nights were cool, the morning sun soon restored temperatures to a very comfortable level.

A chat with some of the locals would determine my next destination. My journey over the past months has been very much a laissez-faire (were should I go tomorrow) and it is rare that I'd pass on a recommendation from a local. I broke camp early on a Sunday morning and set out on a recommended route via a series of secondary roads to Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park. This ride would take me through the interestingly named communities of Catheys Valley, Mariopsa, Ahwahnee, Coarsegold, Fresno and Grants Grove before I would reached Kings Canyon National Park. The highway through this park takes the rider along steep mountain roads with sharp drop-offs. This is a highway of many curves and switchbacks along towering granite cliffs and tumbling waterfalls. An amazing ride this day provided. From King Canyon National Park I rode into the adjacent Sequoia National Park the home of the majestic sequoia trees. Parking the moto and taking a walk through a section known as the giant forest was very inspiring. These living giants soar hundreds of feet into the heavens. In volume of total wood, the giant sequoia stands alone as the largest living thing on Earth. In all the world, sequoias grow naturally only in this region on the west slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains most often between elevations of 5,000 and 7,000 feet. One of the trees I stopped to admire is designated as the General Sherman tree and is between 2,300 and 2,700 years old. Simply a great day this Sunday has rendered. I rode out of the park returning to the San Joaquin Valley and the community of Three Rivers where I camped for the night.

The following day I rode south through the valley. At lunch time I stopped in the small community of Springville where I located a cafe with a shaded outside deck. There I would enjoy great coffee and a good meal. I chatted with a couple of ladies who stated summers in this region are very hot and sometime unbearable - for 4 days this past July temperatures remained at a scorching 118 degrees(48C). Following lunch I headed west to ride through Sequoia National Forest crossing over the Sierra Nevada Mountains via Sherman Pass. Another memorial ride this turned out to be. However the excitement and rewards associated with riding over this isolated scenic pass were somewhat shadowed by the concern over my limited fuel supply and lack of planning. I completed the days ride in the community of Lone Pine as the fuel warning alarm was activated – thus indicating 80 KM of travel was available with the remaining fuel. I purchased fuel and located a motel room where I would spend the night.

The small community of Lone Pine is located on the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains at the base of Mount Whitney (14,494 feet / 4418M) the highest point in the lower 48 states. From this location I would set out for Death Valley National Park. This National Park is a land of extremes. It consist of 3.3 million acres of spectacular desert scenery, rare desert wildlife and complex geology. It contains the lowest, hottest, driest location in North America. Summer temperatures commonly run above 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49C). Death Valley is one of the hottest places on earth, attaining the second-highest temperature ever recorded, 134 degrees F (57). It contains the lowest point in the western hemisphere 282 feet(86M) below sea level near Badwater - the highest point (in the lower 48 states) Mount Whitney just 76 miles (123 km) west. It was incredible to ride through this land. A place with a name so dismal and doomful, an inhospitable and hostile place yet it is a place of much intrigue to this Maritimer. It was an awesome feeling to stretch my legs out over the bike's engine guards, lean back against gear strapped onto the bike and belt out those great Eagle tunes as I rolled along over the desert highway. Singing to my trusty steed “ I get a peaceful, easy feeling and I know you won't let me down 'cause I'm already standing on the ground” and another favorite “On a dark desert highway cool wind in my hair warm smell of coletus rising up through the air up ahead in the distance I saw a shimmering light my head grew heavy and my sight grew dim I had to stop for the night” great tune Hotel California by the Eagles. What a blast this ride was.. I did stop for the night at a place called Furnace Creek where I camped for the next 2 nights and spent 3 days enjoying the autumn desert warmth and learning about this amazing place known as Death Valley.

People I encountered along the way..
I am always impressed with individuals who chose bicycles to travel great distances. I met Mike a Bostonian cycling through Death Valley where we both had stopped to admire a large salt lake. I learned that he had started his journey in Fairbanks Alaska and rode down the Alcan Highway, through the Canadian Rockies in the USA and was on his way to Mexico. I questioned Mike about what it felt like to be pedaling down a highway and see bears grazing in the ditches up ahead.. Not a very good feeling was his response but nothing like having a bear come into your tent. And then he proceeded to tell a story about a bear destroying his tent one night as he lay there but fortunately the panic and hollering frightened the critter off and all that had to be replaced was a tent.. A motorcyclist walked by as I chatted with Mike and spotted my license plated. She enthusiastically question me about my trip.. My reaction was “lady that's nothing - talk to this man” and pointed to Mike – I have much respect for individuals with such courage.

While camping in Death Valley I met Larry and Jill and couple of motorcycle enthusiastic who had trailered their dirt bikes from LA to the desert for a few days off road riding. Larry is also the proud owner of a great looking Red R-1200-GS which he had left at home.. I was invited to join them for dinner one evening – it was great to share good food and exchange biking stories. This couple was very kind to me and for that I am grateful.
I shared lunch with Cleo and Jan, two biker ladies both in their 50s from Utah. They were returning home following a 4.5 months journey through Canada. The objective of their ride was to attempt to get as far north in each province as their cruiser bikes, a Harley and a Yamaha, would allow. A very interesting chat we had. I was extremely impressed with these ladies who rode their bikes c/w street tires across the Trans Labrador Highway. There were many who cautioned them and suggested not to attempt this – but Jan's response “I'll worry about that tomorrow, today we ride”. You gotta love it!!!

I rode into the town of Pahrump, Nevada and stopped at a strip mall to withdraw cash from the local bank. There I met Pat a biker enthusiastic who had expressed interest with the bike and my ride. We chatted for sometime and as the discussion came to a close I asked if there was a campground near by. Pat paused for a moment and stated “Hey I got a garage where this is room to store your bike, I got a spare bedroom you are welcome to have and I've picked up groceries as he pointed to the cart – I'll put something on for supper.” This offer can as a total surprise – I wasn't sure how to respond. So I chose the easy route and passed... now realized that this was a missed opportunity. As I rode off I thought about the fortune cookie and it's message. You will receive unexpected support over the next week. Accept it graciously.

It was an awesome feeling to stretch my legs out over the bikes engine guards, lean back against gear strapped onto the bike and belt out those great Eagle tunes as I rolled along over the desert highway. Singing to my trusty steed “ I get a peaceful, easy feeling and I know you won't let me down 'cause I'm already standing on the ground”

Service didn't appear to very good here so I moved on.

A typical desert scene. The temperature on this October day in Death Valley was a hot 90F (32C) degrees

Sand Dunes of Death Valley

Mount Whitney (14,494 feet / 4418M) the highest point in the lower 48 states is located on the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

The Joshua Tree is a native to the southwestern states of California, Arizona, Utah and Nevada.

Switchbacks through the Sequoia National Park

Some of the challenges road builders must overcome to provide access to the remote area's of Kings Canyon National Park.

Some come to California to visit San Francisco, Los Angeles or San Diego. Others come explore remote mountain passes.

Sequoias grow naturally only in this region on the west slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains most often between elevations of 5,000 and 7,000 feet.

The beauty of Yosemite National Park.

Yosemite National Parks - El Capitan is 3600 feet and is one of the world largest piece of exposed granite.

Riding south on highway 395 looking down from mountains at Mono Lake

Lake Tahoe is located in the in Sierra Nevada Mountains at the borders of Calfornia and Nevada.

My Oasis in the desert at Furnace Creek in Death Valley

Washington / Oregon

2006-10-17T18:55:00.000-04:00

On October 4th I sailed aboard the ferry “Coho” from Victoria BC to my point of entry into the United States of America at Port Angeles, Washington. It is always difficult to leave the comforts of family and friends and once again hit the open road. This time I leave with a heavy heart. The upcoming phase of my journey will take me away from my native land and loved ones, there will be no scheduled stops to visit friend or family along the way and I knew not where this path would take me or how long before I would return.
The advantages of traveling on ferry's with a motorcycle is you are usually first on and first off. And soon after we docked in Port Angeles I proceeded to US costume where I was asked that standard series of questions. My passport was stamped and I was quickly allowed to proceed. I stopped at the local tourist information center to pick-up a state map and a few pamphlets. Soon I was on my way to ride highway 101. This route is the most westerly highway which runs along / near the Pacific ocean all the way to Southern California. It was great to be back in the saddle again and soon I am feeling good about heading off into the unknown. Riding a motorcycle has that magical ability to take you off into a different zone. The focus on the road, the cool autumn air blowing through my helmet, the smell of the forest / the sea and the sights and sounds around you will simply take you into that feeling-good zone. And once again all is good in Jimmer's world.

I continued along route 101 through Olympic National Park. A scenic ride along a very well maintained mountain highway passing a number of lake where I had to stop to admire the large trees in this mature forest. In the community of Humptulips I turned off this highway and headed west to ride along the coast to the communities of Taholah and Ocean Shores. This section of coastal highway is a combination of private and Native property thus providing limited public beach access or ocean viewing area's. Had I not rode this section of highway little would have been missed. I terminated this day's ride in the community of Aberdeen where I camped for the night. Although there were a number of large RVs throughout the park there were no other tents to be seen. This tenting season maybe nearing an end.

As I loaded the bike the following morning in preparation for my day's ride the park attendant came-by to chat about my travels. He indicated that rain had been forecasted for the next few days. As I rode off I followed the coast south and soon crossed into the State of Oregon at the city of Astoria where the might Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean. In the neighboring community of Seaside I booked into a hostel where I would remain for the next three nights and two days and wait for the forecasted rain to pass. An interesting stay was experienced at this busy hostel. These types of establishments attract all types of individuals and during this Columbus Day Weekend we were provided with a broad selection of different characters. One night as I lay awake in my dorm bed listening to the snoring and other bodily noises going on around me I couldn't help but laugh and think what the hell am I doing here? But it really wasn't that bad and besides this is the stuff that makes the journey all the more interesting. However, given the accommodation options I would chose to stay in a hostel because of the social environment they provide.

I left the town of Seaside on a very overcast Sunday of the Columbus Day / Canada's Thanksgiving Day weekend to return to Washington. My plans were to ride the Columbia River Gorge and visit Mount St. Helen over the next few days. As I headed east I rode into a cold rain. After two hours of riding in these elements I stopped for coffee and a bite to eat. I was soon joined by another group who were also seeking refuge from the cold rain. It turned out that these three riders were from Vancouver Island and were very familiar with the region. They suggested I ride with them for the next couple of hours through a number of secondary roads where they'd drop me off near the Mount St. Helen. The rain subsided as we rode off and it was fun to be sitting at the back of the group and ride along.

As I started the ascent to Mount St. Helen the ceiling soon closed in on me and once again I was riding through clouds and rain. These conditions remained throughout the 1.5 hours to the Johnston Ridge Observatory. This first class facility not only provided warmth and relief from the rain but there were a number of very informative presentations by the park rangers and a film on the May 18, 1980 Mount St. Helen's erupted. Very educational it all was. Although todays rainy conditions provided limited visibility from the Observatory this vantage point brings visitors within five miles of the north side of the volcano and normally offers views of the still-steaming lava dome, crater, pumice plain and landslide deposit.

The following is a synopses of a week of great touring

From Castle Rock I set out under clear skies to ride to the southeast side of Mount St. Helen crater. It would take me 4.5 hours of great riding along twisty narrow mountain roads before I arrived at the site of a once old growth forest but was blown down or buried beneath volcanic deposits when Mount St. Helen erupted. From this observation point at Windy Ridge I continued south until I reached the Columbia River and crossed into Oregon. I then followed the Columbia River Gorge - a spectacular 80 mile long river canyon with the north canyon walls in Washington State and the south canyon walls in Oregon.

Setting out from City of Portland on a clear autumn morning I headed west to the Oregon coast. I selected a series secondary roads some of which were paved other dirt. The 4 hour ride would take me through rural farmland but soon became a twisty hilly mountainous forest route along huge stands of trees in this mature forest. The road following a scenic river which I crossed a number of times. I love riding in this environment. I arrived at the Pacific Ocean at Cape Lookout – a spectacular ocean setting. I located a grassy patch and sat there in my riding gear admiring the view. Every day of riding is a good day but once in a while I strike a day that is great. This was great day. As I sat there I thought – “throughout one's life we are constantly bombarded with rules and regulations / policies and procedures / demands and expectations – today things are different - Anyone who knows me knows not where I am – Anyone around me knows not who I am - Never before have I known such freedom – Such is the life of a Saddle Tramp – Life is good”.

Over the next 3 day I would ride the spectacular Oregon Coast. It was extremely difficult to accumulate significant mileage in any given ride because one is constantly forced to stop and admire the beauty of this ocean's coast. I've seen whales and large seal lions for the shore on a number of occasions.

I spent 2 days in Oregon State Capital City, Salem - very nice community this is. During this period I left my trusty steed with the BMW dealer to completed the 30,000 KM warranty service and to installed two new tires. The folks at Salem BMW were very accommodating. I pick up the motorcycle mid Friday afternoon and returned to the motel. Within ten minutes I receive a call from the front desk – someone in the lobby would like to see me. It's Mark the bike mechanic with a torque wrench in hand. “I am not sure I properly torque the studs on your rear wheel” he states. To the bike we go – all was well. He stated that when he was installing the rear wheel this AM a local customer stop-by and became extremely frustrated when he seen Mark working on a travelers bike and not his. This interruption caused him grief and loss of focus. When I rode off after my short visit with them he began to question his work. A good man he is..

From Salem I rode southeast to visit Crater Lake National Park. Another good day of riding to a location of great beauty. My first view of this lake was almost breathtaking – This is spectacular - WOW. On this bright sunny afternoon the lake so blue in colour surrounded by sheer cliffs almost 2000 feet high with a circumference around the lake of over 20 miles. An awesome sight it was.

The view from the upper aft deck of the ferry Coho as we sailed out of Victoria harbour.

This project caught my attention as I rode by. I stopped and looked around but there was no one nearby to tell me a story or give me a tour.

The beach at Seaside, Oregon – Although my running to date has been inconsistent - the run on this beach was extremely pleasant.

The City of Astoria, Oregon where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean.

Mount Rainier (14,410 ft) dominates the landscape of a large part of western Washington.

At 8:32 Sunday morning, May 18, 1980, Mount St. Helen's erupted. Shaken by an earthquake measuring 5.1 on the Richter scale, the north face of this tall symmetrical mountain collapsed in a massive rock debris avalanche. Nearly 230 square miles of forest was blown down or buried beneath volcanic deposits. At the same time a mushroom-shaped column of ash rose thousands of feet skyward and drifted downwind, turning day into night as dark, gray ash fell over eastern Washington and beyond. The eruption lasted 9 hours, but Mount St. Helen's and the surrounding landscape were dramatically changed within moments.

The Columbia River Gorge is a spectacular river canyon cutting the only sea-level route through the Cascade Mountain Range.

Another isolated dirt road through the forest - Riding doesn't get any better then this..

Cape Lookout...A spectacular view

More of Oregon's spectacular coast...

I wonder if Buddy would mind if I knocked on his door and asked if I could pitch my tent in back yard.

More of Oregon's spectacular coast...

The waters of Crater Lake are a brilliant blue - a place of immeasurable beauty - Note the reflector of the adjacent slopes. Generous amounts of winter snow supply this lake with water which has no inlets or outlets. Evaporation and seepage prevent the lake from becoming any deeper.

Vancouver Island

2006-10-02T13:27:00.000-04:00

A very pleasant September I've had. The first week of that month I was provided with great hospitality and very comfortable accommodations in Vancouver thanks to sister Markeda and spouse Phil. The second week I moved on to Victoria and was provided with more of the same. Thanks to a very special young lady my daughter Tania and her buddy Jason. On Friday September 15th I loaded up the moto and joined Tania and Jason for a weekend of camping on Salt Spring Island. While there we strolled through the local market and checked-out the Island's fall fair. A very nice weekend it was.
Over the next two weeks, I would ride throughout this Island exploring all but a very few of it's communities. As previously reported the scenery of this province continues to remain spectacular – Supernatural BC.
Although I continue to camp, the frequency of this activity has been greatly reduced while the use of hostel has steadily increased. For the same price as a camping site a hostel will provide a clean warm bed in a dorm, hot showers and facilities to prepare meals. Another advantage of the hostel is the opportunity they provide to meet some very interesting individuals or in some cases not so interesting. In any case these encounters simply make the experience all the more interesting.

The last time I ran with Fredericton's Capital City Road Runners in their Wednesday evening fun run I was given a $10.00 bill by my good friend Harry Drost. Harry requested that I was to inform him on how this money was spent. That $10.00 bill was safely stashed away until Sunday October 1st. It was then utilized as part of my registration fee to participate in the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation CIBC Run for the Cure 5 KM road race. It was a great morning for a run. The air was cool and sky overcast. And a very good run we had. I consider running a gift and having the opportunity to participate in such an activity with my daughter Tania enables me to become a man of very good fortune. So to my good friend Harry a special thanks for contributing towards the registration fees.

A few of my favoutite Island activities –

Riding Highway 4 from Port Alberni to Tofino. A highway built for the motorcycle with plenty of ups / downs and tight turns through huge stands of Duglas fir and hard woods along lakes nestled in the mountains.

Riding Highway 28 from Campbell River to Gold River and onto Muchalat Inlet. Another very scenic ride with very little vehicle traffic.

Exploring Picific Rim National Park – hiking some of it scenic paths and beach walks along surf swept sands.

Scenic hikes along Clayoquot and Barkley Sound.

Kayaking the waters of Courtenay and Comox.

An easy 3 days of drop ass at a great hostel in downtown Courtenay.

Hanging out in Victoria with Tania and Jason.

Running the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation CIBC Run for the Cure 5 KM road race with Tania.

Victoria's downtown inner harbour c/w the BC Legislative Building. Note the small boat in the lower portion of the photo is a water taxi and harbour tour boat.

A section of Victoria's harbour is designated runway for these aircraft. This particular photo was taken from the boat while on a harbour tour. The aircraft is on it's landing approach. These are over 100 daily scheduled flights to and from this harbour.

Learn more about Floating Homes http://www.floatingstructures.com.

This floating home is one of many found in Victoria Marina's. All utilities (water / sewerage/ power) are tied into the municipalities system.

This effective tourist attraction know as "Goats on a Roof". There are a number of goats which spend their summer grazing on the roof of this old market in the community of Coombs.

Catheral Grove located in the Macmillan Provinical Park is one of the most accessable stand of giant Duglas Fir trees on Vancouver Island.The western Island's village of Ucluelet is home to this fishing troller fleet.

The Pacific Rim National Park - Long Beach get it's name from the 12 mile stretch of surf swept sand. The park is open year round and offers outstanding beach hiking, surfing, storm watching and whale watching.

Sproat Lake on the Pacific Rim Highway.

Heavy morning fog covering this Port Hardy mooring.

Port Hardy is the home base of the “Cape Sutil” a Canadian Coast Guard 15 metre shore-based self-righting lifeboats capable of search and rescue operations of up to 100 nautical miles with a top speed of approximately 25 knots. I was provided with a very informative tour of this vessel from it's engineer.

Telegraph Cove is tucked away on the north eastern coast of the Island in one of the last virtually untouched areas of the Island.

An afternoon of kayaking the waters around Comox and Courtenay. I could not resist the opportunity to paddle into this marina and check-out these toys.

The bow of this steel ship lies against the harbour's break water while the remainder of it broken hull is spread about in it's shallow grave. An interesting tale I am sure it could tell.

Five thousand runners / walkers make their way to the start line for the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation CIBC Run for the Cure in Victoria. This event raised at total of $500,000.00

British Columbia II

2006-09-10T02:28:00.000-04:00

From August 21st to the 25th I toured the scenic Okanagan and Kootnenay regions of south central BC touring such centers as Kamloops, Kelowna, Vernon and Nelson although these areas provided plenty of city's activities there was too much traffic for my liking. After consultation with a few local bikers I was provided with a list of secondary roads which I should ride, all of which provided stunning scenery and some great riding.

On Friday August 25th I registered to attend a weekend travelers meeting / rally in the Nelson BC area . This meeting was organized by Horizons Unlimited (Learn more about Horizons Unlimited www.horizonsunlimited.com / the ultimate motorcycle travellers site ). This web site is a tremendous resource for anyone planning or traveling to remote regions on a motorcycle. I would encourage you to visit this site – it does provides plenty of great information and interesting reading. I have used this site extensively to prepare for my tour. I was aware this meeting was scheduled in Nelson months ago and had planned to attend this function long before I had left New Brunswick.
It was extremely rewarding to be among a hundred or more adventure motorcyclist who shared the same dreams and interest. There were a number of riders who have rode motorcycles through Central and South America, Eastern Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Russia, Mongolia, Africa and points beyond. These riders made presentations throughout the weekend. It was an extremely informative and motivating weekend which provided a setting to meet plenty of very interesting people some of which I plan to reconnect with later in this ride.

On Monday August 28th I left Nelson and for the next few days traveled in westerly direction within southern regions of BC. This route lead me through the town of Osoyoos which lies in the center of Canada’s only desert. This region boasts its own climate zone the “Osoyoos Arid Biotic Zone,” which produces hot, sunny summers and mild winters. This community claims the warmest freshwater lake in Canada as well as the lowest annual precipitation and highest annual temperature. Despite its small size Canada’s desert is home to an exceptional array of desert plants and animals some found nowhere else in Canada many on the brink of extinction.
From this southern most corner of the beautiful Okanagan Valley I then headed in a northwesterly direction towards the town of Lillooet via the Nicola Valley. This valley is home to the 500,000 acre Douglas Lake Ranch which is one of North America's largest working cattle ranch. This region landscape offers sharp contrasts from green fields to sagebrush studded hillsides and rich marshes. An interesting ride it was through this varied landscape.

In the town of Lillooet I camped on the banks of the mighty Fraser River. Overlooking these waters I couldn't help but reflect on what it would have been like to paddle canoes alongside Simon Fraser and his followers as they charted these waters to the Pacific Ocean. How did these people react to the daily challenges they faced from these waters and the rugged landscape?

From the town of Lillooet I rode highway 99 to Vancouver thought the communities of Pemberton, Whistler and Squamish. This highway offers some amazing scenery, great riding and a number of interesting communities worthy of exploring. My first stop along the way was in the town of Pemberton.

Here I discovered that the local airport offered rides in Glider Planes (Learn more about Pemberton Soaring www.pembertonsoaring.com ) I had always been keen about these aircraft so this was my opportunity to finally get to fly in one. Off to the airport I go and sign up for the glacier tour. My turn to soar has finally arrives. I am fitted into the front seat of a very small cockpit Rudy the pilot sits behind me in his own compartment and will handles the controls. Two other assistants remain outside the glider. One of them will hold the wing so that the aircraft is balanced over the runway. The other will attach a tow-line to our glider. The opposite end of this tow-line is secured to an airplane. Rudy my pilot maintains voice communications with all three of these individuals and soon instructs the tow plane pilot to make ready for take-off. The individual holding the wing runs along with the glider for approximately 10 metres until airflow is establish over the wings and within that the same distance the glider is airborne and remains airborne long before the tow plane leaves the tarmac. Once in the air the tow plane pull us high out of the valley and into the mountains to locate the thermals and the winds rising off the mountains. Once we reach the updrafts Rudy deactivates the securing mechanism and the tow-line is detached form the glider. We're now on our own much like eagles catching the updrafts and soaring on silent wings. What a fantastic feeling this is. We slowly gain altitude over the glacier then gently bank the glider to slip downward and gather speed only to level out and once again climb on the thermals. We make our way over the glaciers and through mountain passes. On occasions the wing tip are within 30 metres of the mountain side. On our final pass through the mountains we catch a strong thermal which lifts us to 7000 feet. We now make our way out of the mountains for our return flight to the airstrip. What a blast I've been having. Rudy suggest we do a loop to which I respond “Okay”. With that acknowledgment the nose of the aircraft is gently lowered. We quickly gather speed and soon start to climb towards the heavens. My head is forced back against the headrest and I am now looking up at the valley floor which was once under me. This is a strange feeling but it is over seconds. Truly amazing!!! Sadly we soon touch down - this has been the best ride I've ever experienced in a fixed wing aircraft. And now I am thinking is there anyway I could have access to one of these in the future? This is a remarkable toy.
The following day I make the half hour ride to the town of Whistler. I have fond memories of this community having had the opportunity to ski here on two different occasions. My thoughts are to locate a camp site and take a couple of days to experience Whistlers summer activities. Once in the town I realize this place is crawling with tourist. It appears so artificial – wall to wall condominiums, townhouses, hotels, shops. I locate the camping area and learn that a tent site (no services) will cost $45 / night and I cannot take the bike into the camping area. I decide to move on while focusing on the great memories of skiing these mountains.
My next stop is the community of Squamish which is nestled on the edge of the Coastal Mountains and Howe Sound a spectacular setting this is. This is a town I very much enjoyed - it claims to be the outdoor playground of Canada. It offers great hiking and mountain bike trails, strong winds for kiteboarding and wind surfing and for the true adrenaline junkies some very challenging rock climbing. I could live in this town but then again I probably couldn't afford too. The upcomming 2010 winter games have driven the property prices in this region through the roof.

It was in this community of Squamish where I encountered a most pleasant surprise. I was about to leave the community but decided to head downtown for a last stop at an outdoor cafe / to sit back / people watch and enjoy a latte. I had parked the bike and was in the process of removing my helmet when I hear my name called in a very familiar voice. I turn to find Terry Haines who is a very good running buddy from Fredericton (as a masters marathon runner Terry rates amongst the provinces best). Terry and spouse Karen had flown from Fredericton to Vancouver. In Vancouver they rent a vehicle and drove to Squamish to attend their nephew's wedding which was scheduled for later that afternoon. It was a wonderful encounter. A very nice visit we had c/w an opportunity to get caught up on the running news.
From Squamish I rode the sea to sky highway to Vancouver. This city would be my destination for the next 7 days. Here I would visit with my sister Markeda and spouse Phil. A great visit it was - the bike was given a thorough cleaning (the first good cleaning in two months) – the stop-over provided a great opportunity to simply kick back and relax – the bike's 20,000 KM service was completed at the local BMW dealer. (Although I now have 25,000 KM on the motorcycle it is extremely difficult to get dealer service on this moto with only 12 dealers in all of Canada / That's a story for another day) – Special thanks to Markeda and Phil for the comfortable accommodations and great meals.
On September 8th, I rode to Horseshoe Bay to catch the ferry to Nanaimo and Vancouver Island.

A chance encounter – running buddy Terry in Squamish. Thanks to Karen for forwarding this photo.

Kootenay Lake - The Central Kootenay Region of B.C. is bounded by the Selkirk Mountain range to the west and the Purcell range to the east.

This large cat is not the real thing but it certainly caught my attention as I rode by. Most British Columbians live all their lives without a glimpse of a cougar much less a confrontation with one. Conflict between cougars and humans is extremely rare. In the past 100 years a total of five people have been killed by cougar attacks in B.C. (in comparison bees kill upwards of three Canadians every year). All but one of these fatal cougar attacks occurred on Vancouver Island.

Switch backs down the mountain and into Osoyoos the only desert in Canada with the lowest rainfall the highest temperatures and the warmest lakes. Osoyoos is located in the middle of the Southern Okanagan wine country.

Sunset in Osoyoos - the sky is fill with smoke from a fire that began Aug. 22 in Washington state and soon crossed the border into B.C. As of September 12^th this fire continues to burn.

The Nicola Valley - This area of BC was first settled by ranchers who recognized the potential for a productive cattle industry

The Fraser River is the longest river in BC rising near Mount Edith Cavell its journey of 1375 km ends at the city of Vancouver where it merges with the Pacific Ocean

Sundown at Seton Lake near Lillooet

Highway 99 somewhere between Lillooet and Pemberton

Duffey Lake Provincial Park north of Pemberton in the Coast Mountains Region.

And now I am thinking is there anyway I could have access to one of these in the future? This is a remarkable toy.

Once in the air the tow plane pull us high out of the valley and into the mountains to locate the thermals and the winds rising off the mountains.

A grand view of the Pemberton Valley below.

Soaring on silent wings towards the glacier.

On occasion the wing tip appear to be within 30 metres of the mountain side.

Spectacular Howe Sound is North America's southernmost fjord. Located northwest of Vancouver and extending from West Vancouver north to Squamish.

British Columbia I

2006-08-22T00:27:00.000-04:00

On Monday August 14^th I located the Cassiar Highway and rode out of the Yukon and into British Columbia. This route provided some awesome scenery through Glacier covered mountains and rain forest. It was a full days ride with the weather along the way forever changing – heavy rain – sunshine – heavy rain – sunshine.. There were two thirty KM sections of unsealed road both of which were in the heavy rain weather pattern. This section was basically mud – It was fun to ride this stuff but did I have one filthy bike at the end of the day.

I rode to the coastal town of Stewart and located the camping area to settle in for the night. Three other bikers had set-up in the same area – I walked over for a visit and met Stephen and Bruno from Switzerland they had shipped their bikes to LA and have been touring the west coast of Canada and the US. A third rider from Calgary Al had met them a few days ago and the three were now riding together. They told me about seeing Grizzly's feeding on the salmon which were heading up river to spawn. They were to return to the same site at 6 AM the following morning. I was invited to join them.

We left the camp site a 6 AM and crossed into Hyder, Alaska. At 10 minute ride took us to observation deck. Which was constructed on the banks of a small river. Here I witnessed on of a most amazing natural activities.. Salmon were heading up river to spawn. This section of river was at it's end – The salmon could not proceed any further beyond this point. Here the female salmon would turn on their side and frantically whip the river bottom with their tail in order to create a cavity to lay their eggs. The male salmon would battle each other for the rights to provide the sperm to fertilize the eggs. While all of this was happening grizzly, bald eagles and sea gulls were having a feast. All of this was transpiring within 10 metres of where I was standing. I observed a grizzly catching a salmon – hold it in his mouth and headed for the river bank – the salmon was fighting to escape - on the river bank the salmon was dropped – the bear placed it's left front paw and with it's teeth tore a section from the side of the salmon – the bear lifted it's paw and the salmon escaped into the river to complete it mission before it would die. It was simply amazing to witness such an activity. Once these large mature salmon completed the spawning process they would die.

We left this area and went for breakfast. Over coffee,toast and eggs we decided we should ride to Salmon Glacier. We'd follow a dirt road through the mountains along edge of cliffs which dropped 100 or more metre to the bottom below. The early morning sun was bright and high in the sky thus providing for some amazing colours and views. We made a number of stops along the way to admire the view before we reached the base of the glacier. The ride was rather bumpy but most enjoyable. We arrived at an abandon copper mine. A helicopter was parked off to the side. We rode over to chat with the pilot. Al assumed he must be in the tour business and asked if we could get a ride. The pilot explained that he was with a mining exploration group and was not in the tour business. However if we wanted a short ride up to glacier he'd take us.

What a blast this turned out to be. The control this man had over this machine was remarkable. The ride was as smooth a silk which made it all the more thrilling. We slowly made our way up the glacier and hovered at the top near the mountain face. He took us over to a different section where we observed the large crevasses in the glacier. He then banked the aircraft hard to port side and leveled out at 10 metres above the glacier and raced over the top of the snow to the bottom. What a rush!!! This is the next best thing to skiing.

What a day we're having – we seen see grizzles feeding on salmon – we rode along edge of cliffs to a remote glaciers – we've rode in a helicopter to the top of a glacier and it's not noon yet.

My ride south over the next couple of days was somewhat uneventful. The temperature was noticeable increasing and so was the traffic. The day light hours was substantially shorter - I had rode out of the mountains so the scenery was not as spectacular – I am missing the North already.

Riding towards the community of Williams Lake a vehicle with New Brunswick license plates overtook me – all of the occupants waved as they went by. Later that evening I stopped at the grocery store, while there an individual approached me. He had noticed my parked bike and the riding jacket I was carrying. He was the operator of the N.B. Vehicle. As it turned out he was an RCMP constable who had recently transferred from Woodstock, N.B. to this region. He also is the brother of a good friend and once co-worker. How cool is that!!!

I camped in Williams Lake a very clean and picturesque community - the home town of Rick Hanson / Man in Motion. The following morning I chatted with the park attendant. He recommended I ride to Bella Coola. I was unaware of this community. But with a name like that it's gotta be special. It was a 5 ½ hour ride west of Williams Lake through a region known as the Cariboo Chilcoton Valley. The road crossed the mighty Fraser River where the landscape changer completely. I had entered the Chilcoton Plateau. Grasslands covered part of this region known as the Becher Prairie characterized by sagebrush, grasses and prickly pear cactus.. These grasslands are in the shadow of the coastal mountains which causes their summers to be hot and dry.

Approximately 100 KM of this route is unsealed but in relatively good condition. The true high lite of this ride was what the locals refer to as “the hill”. The hill is actually Hickmans Pass – a 16 KM ride down the mountain along narrow single lanes of switch backs cut along the edge of the cliff with grades in excess of 18%. The road surface although dirt was in excellent condition. It is by far the most exciting hill ride I've completed to date.

My two day stay in Bella Coola and the adjacent community of Hagenborg (founded by Norwegians in the late 1800's) was most enjoyable. I managed to complete some hiking trails, sit at the river's edge and once again watch the salmon proceed through the spawning cycle and then die - “Spawn til you Die” Truly Amazing.

I camped for two night in a very picturesque park at the forest edge. On Friday evening August 18^th a fellow camper came by to tell me he had just seen a bear passed through the area next to his site. He had talked to the camp owner Carl about the sighting. Carl then requested him to stop by my site (because I was the only other person in a tent) to let tell me what had transpired and ensure my food was properly stored.

My approach to this whole bear thing is this.. Ensure that the camping area's are clean. Properly store you food and an number of other precautions - etc... When one considers the number of people killed by bears in North America over the past 25 years and compares that statistic to the number kill in motorcycle accidents..I consider the odds to be in my favor in my tent even in bear country.

I returned to Williams Lake on Saturday August 19 and remained in this community until Monday. Sunday was a easy day. I went to Canadian Tire (only place in town open on Sunday) to change the oil in the bike and later sat around a very pretty downtown park and worked on the blog / off line...The following morning I rode to the ski resort area of Sun Peaks. This is one of the few of the larger ski resorts in Canada which I have not skied but it's on my to do list. I booked a room in the local hostel and went out for a few cool ones and dinner.

This roof comes with a lawn mower and life time warranty – some leakage my be expected.

At this location I had experienced a change in the weather. The rain had recently stopped and the sun broke through rain clouds to provide an spectacular setting – Mother Nature the Artist

More of Mother Nature the Artist.

We rode along a dirt road some of which was cut from the cliffs edge to Salmon Glacier – The scenery along the way was amazing.

The back drop is Salmon Glacier – Al from Calgary, Bruno & Stephen from Switzerland and Jimbo

Bruno and Stephan display a little excitement about our pending ride in this machine.

We're back on solid ground – What an amazing ride we've had – we offered the pilot $80.00 but he wouldn't accept it – He was content with knowing that he had given us something very special.

In Smithers I followed the signage down a dirt road to Twin Falls.. Some 10 KM of canopy cover trees – I am loving this off road stuff – The view at Twin Falls was equally pretty.

The fishing fleet in Bella Coola Harbour – The sea, boats and mountains are but some of my favorites comfort ingredients.

My Pad in Bella Coola Valley.

A taste of the road through Hitckman Pass in to Bella Coola Valley.

This photo location is at the top of Hitckman Pass – The clearing through the trees is the part of the road through the mountain. It is a 16 KM ride to the bottom - It is referred too as “The Hill” by local residents but to this outsider it's definitely a mountain.

The Chilcoton Plateau - Grasslands covered part of this region known as the Becher Prairie characterized by sagebrush, grasses and prickly pear cactus.. These grasslands are in the shadow of the coastal mountains which causes their summers to be hot and dry.

Grizzly's feeding on salmon in Hyder, Alaska – It was difficult to get good photo's in the early morning light.